Clutch and transmission change - "How To"

[repiv]

There is already an existing "How To" on a clutch change on the internet, but I'll do this one with "NOTES" on steps that can be done differently and may prove to be better for many people.
(click for more pictures) ----

I got an AP2 tranny because of the revised secondary output shaft ratio, which is about an increase of 4% in mechanical advantage. I already had the J's 4.44 FD rear end. Coupled with this AP2 tranny, this gives me an effective FD ratio of 4.62 in the first 4 gears, while 5th and 6th is more like 4.4. This gives me back a couple hundred rpm at hiway speeds. It's a win/win deal. I'm still breaking in the new tranny, so I'm not bagging on it just yet, but so far, it gives the feeling that it pulls away from a stop much more easily and acceleration in the first 4 gears is easier and more brisk. I already have a Yellow Box for speed compensation with the 4.44 gears. With the new tranny, I had to dial in another +4% to bring the speedo and odo back to where it was before.
I also got the Hardtopguy clutch kit for more clamping force. Upon initial installation, I sensed that the pedal pressure was about 2X of the OEM PP, but now that I've driven around a bit more, I'll revise that to say it's somewhere between 1.5X and twice. This should do well for my supercharged application.
I can't honestly say that the CT lightweight flywheel gives me any sensation of better rev up since I got better gearing with the tranny, nor can I say that it revs down any quicker at gear shifts when the gas is let off. However, I can say that when the engine used to dip down below normal idle when hot and coming to a stop, the engine doesn't dip down nearly as much now and it comes back up to idle almost instantaneously. I guess maybe taking 5 lbs of rotating mass in the clutch does do something.
BTW. My old clutch has just over 72K kms. Putting the old and new disc end to end, the old one was thinner by about 1mm. This translated to my clutch pedal moving the friction point UP by about 1" to 1.5". It's interesting how, over the years, we just get used to the gradual change in the pedal position that we don't realize it. Now the pedal is right back to where it was when the car was new. Also, my clutch decel buzz is now gone. Honda revised the springs in the disc to take are of this annoyance.

Here are the pictures of my new AP2 tranny:


For those with the Helm service manual (2000/2001), the pages are as follows:
Shifter removal and engine lowering: 13-5 to 13-11
Clutch job: 12-7 to 12-11

NOTE: If you are likely to forget where all the nuts and bolts go, put them in little baggies and label each one. It would be a shame to finish up and find out you have some left over nuts or bolts and those are the ones that needed to go in BEFORE a whole bunch of stuff got put together.
__________________________________________________ ___
While you're still clean, take apart the shifter assembly ....................................
a. Remove the shift knob. With the stock one, you'll need to loosen the lock nut that's under the knob. Turn it like you're screwing it in. This will move it away from the knob. Then unscrew the knob.
b. Remove the center console cover and shift stick surround. It's one big piece that includes your elbow rest pad. There are 8 pressure clips all around the circumference of this cover. Work it up a bit with your fingers and push in a flat screw driver to pop each clip up. 4 of these are close to each extreme corner of the cover and the other 4 are spaced near the edges but about equidistant from the end ones. Work from the rear and move to the front, side to side.
Reach under the console and unclip all the wiring connectors (emergency flasher, top switch, defroster switch if present).
c. The next part is tricky. You'll see a white plastic retainer ring with 4 slots along the edges of the ring (see the pics and instructions in that link I put up). You need to use a small, narrow screw driver to push the pins inward to release the ring. Take it slow. They'll come out with ease if the pins are free.
d. Lift off the ring and shift boot. Take note how the boot is orientated. It's not perfectly symmetrically round.
e. Now you'll see another rubber boot. Note how it's orientated. The rubber "knob" points to the front and this is what you grab to begin to dislodge the boot. It seals all along the edges with the metal plate below it. Lift up to expose the 3 bolts one by one and remove these bolts (10mm). Note the shape of this metal plate and how it sits.
f. Note the angle of the stick as it sits in the hole. It may be easier to put the tranny into neutral. As you pull the stick out, you'll notice that it's attached to a plastic assembly with side pieces that fit into the corresponding slots in the hole. There should also be a spring that can be taken out. Keep all this in a small container on the floor of the footwell. It's all quite greasy, so put the end of the stick and spring inside a plastic bag so you don't get dust bunnies all over it.
NOTE: Before you re-install all this, grease the ball at the end of the stick. Grease the plastic assembly that slides into the slots of the tranny housing. Grease the slots that the stick slides into. Grease the spring.

**********************
While the car is still on the ground ..................................................
NOTE: Disconnect the negative battery terminal (10mm). You'll need your radio code later.

1. Remove the airbox (10mm).
2. 14mm to lever the belt tensioner to get belt off. Note how it's routed.

A set of rachetting closed ended wrenchs will be very useful for the following:
3. Remove the 4 exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and take shield off.
4. Remove battery heat shield (10mm). There are 4 such bolts, the last one near the firewall only needs to be loosened as the heatshield there is slotted.
5. Loosen all 7 exhaust header nuts (12mm) till they are on the last few threads.
6. Remove top alternator bolt, loosen bottom one, rotate alternator to the side.
NOTE: Step 6 is to gain access to the infamous top starter bolt. At this stage, I found it far easier to simply remove the alternator altogether. Remove the bottom alternator bolt, unclip wiring connector and undo large power cable nut on the rear. Take the thing out altogether. When putting back in, lubricate the faces of the parts that the lower bolt goes into. It is very tight and you'll need it to slide around easier to match the holes up to get the bolt to go all the way through. DON'T hammer on it or you'll damage the bolt. If it's lined up right, it'll thread by hand. It's a very precise fit. I sprayed everything with WD-40.

7. Then remove the belt tensioner (a 6mm hex wrench is needed for this).

8. Remove the intake manifold brace. There are 4 bolts of different lengths, so label them all so you know where they go back. 2 go from underneath the manifold and up into the manifold. 2 more go horizontally into the belt tensioner mount.
9. Remove the belt tensioner mount (it's the shiny, flat thing with the hole in the middle). Leave the 2 bolts in the tensioner so you know which goes in which hole.

10. You may as well take out that top starter bolt now. You'll need a 14mm socket on the end of a 2.5' to 3' extension. You can actually see this bolt and get a fairly straight shot at it:

(It's the one that has a slight orange/reddish tinge to it.) With all the stuff out of the way, you can actually reach back there to take it out by hand if it doesn't stay stuck in the socket. To put it back in, put the bolt into the socket and push it through a small hole in a "baggie". Wrap the baggie around the extension and tape it. This will hold the bolt in place till you can get a few threads started. Then pull the baggie off the bolt head.
NOTE: Tape the socket to the end of the extension so you don't lose it.

NOTE:At this stage, you are instructed to remove the A/C compressor bolts (4). These are very difficult to access and I found it is NOT necessary to do this if you use the engine tilt method (discussed later). The only reason they want you to do this is that when you lower the engine evenly and completely, the A/C lines may not be long enough and will stretch on the front cross bar. Using the tilt method presents no issues for those lines. It is also NOT necessary to disconnect the A/C wiring harness.

11. Disconnect the 2 sensor harnesses at the end of the engine head by the firewall. One plugs in from the passenger side and the other plugs in from the firewall direction. This is to minimize the possibility of breaking the harnesses off when the back of the engine starts to lower. It can get close to the firewall.
12. Disconnect the large, grey hose that goes into the base of that round, dome shaped thing at the top back of the engine:


NOTE: At this point, you are to disconnect the steering rack electrical connectors (2). These can be also very hard to reach, let alone press the release clip and pull the connector apart. If you use the tilt method, this step is NOT necessary. Leave these connectors alone.

13. Remove the 14mm bolt at the rear of the intake manifold. This secures a metal support bracket that holds several wiring bundles and help support the intake manifold. You can see it here:


Now you can raise the car up onto jackstands. The tranny is about 17" from top to bottom, so you need at least this amount of height and clearance to get the thing out from under the car. I had my car up about 19". You'll need truck jackstands as the typical car ones don't go high enough. Most floor jacks won't go that high either, but you can have pieces of wood blocking to raise the floor jack that last few inches. I used 2X10s about 15" long and stacked them on top of the floor jack lift pad. Do this only after you have the car already secured on the jackstands going as high as the floorjack will go initially. Use the central front and rear jacking points for this.

14. From underneath, find the steering column joint. This is the one closest to the steering rack and has the open ended rubber boot on it. Have the steering wheel more or less pointed straight but unlocked (key in first position). If the locking bolts aren't pointed towards you, grab the front tire and move them till the joint bolt heads are facing you. Use a permanent felt marker and heavily mark the lower edge of the joint and steering column rod with a line that crosses both. This will act as a guide and alignment mark for when you are ready to put it back together again. Now go lock the steering column by taking the key out.
Remove the lower bolt completely. Loosen the upper one (the one poking through the rubber boot). You may need a pry bar to push the whole joint up towards the steering wheel so that it frees itself from the lower column.
NOTE: When putting this back together, make sure the alignment mark is true. Torque down the lower locking bolt. Now, turn the tire so that the upper locking bolt faces you. When you put your socket on it, push up firmly while your torque it down. This will eliminate any "schlop" in the steering that will result if you don't do this.

NOTE: It is now recommended that you remove the plastic central splash shield (just in front of the oil pan). It is NOT necessary unless you need access to something in there (like retrieving a dropped tool or nut). You can always do it if there is a need later. The centers of all the fasteners must get pried away by about 1/8", then the fastener can be removed. You will likely break some of these and you'll have to cut them out with side cutters. You can replace them with new ones or just use big zip ties to secure the shield. Best to just leave it alone.

NOTE: It is now recommended that you remove the engine bump stop. This is NOT necessary. Leave it.

15. Remember my last picture? (step 13). From underneath, find the other end of that metal brace and undo the other 14mm bolt. There is NO need to remove this brace. Just leave it hanging there. It will stay put as the engine comes down.

16. Just forward of the bolt in step 15, you will see a large ground cable bolted to the engine. Remove this bolt and let the cable dangle.

17. Go stuff something firm under the clutch pedal so it won't accidentally be depressed. I used an old plastic plant pot.
18. Remove the 2 (12mm) clutch slave cylinder bolts. DON'T touch the one that's at the end of the hydraulic line. Work the edges of the rubber boot out of the hole in the side of the tranny casing. Note how it seats itself for when it's time to put it back. Use a piece of wire to tie the slave cylinder and hang it out of the way of the tranny. DON'T yank on the little plunger inside the rubber boot or it'll fall out of the piston bore.
18a. Grab the release fork that's sticking out of the tranny casing hole and yank it straight out to dislodge it from its holder. Don't worry about securing this now. If it falls inside the tranny casing, you can get it later once the tranny's off. Note which direction the hollow socket end faces.

Now, onto the exhaust ........................
19. Remove the 3 nuts (14mm) at the tail end of the cat. Use lots of penetrant beforehand.
20. Remove the spring bolts at the front of the cat (12mm) wrench at each end of the nut and bolt.
Before you separate the cat from the rest of the exhaust, use a large crescent wrench to snap free the O2 sensor. Once you get the cat free, you can hold the sensor and spin the cat off. This way, you don't get the sensor wires all twisted up.
21. Remove the lower exhaust manifold bracket that secures the manifold to the side of the engine. Use a piece of wire the secure the exhaust manifold as far away from the tranny as possible. I tied the wire to the jackstand.
22. Now you've got a whole bunch of sensor connectors and harness stays to uncouple and disconnect from the tranny casing, including the back up light switch harness. Some of the wiring stays can be pinched from the backside of the brackets and pushed through the bracket, while others will simple have to be broken and zip tied on re-assembly. Some brackets can be unbolted from the tranny entirely, leaving the wiring attached. Take note of how many and where these are. They must all be free of the tranny before it will come down and out. You may have to lower the engine partially, then go undo some of these before lowering the rest of the way.
Disconnect the speed sensor harness from the tranny.

23. Pull handbrake firmly to lock driveshaft in place.
24. Remove what front propshaft bolts you can reach (6mm hex). Release handbrake, rotate propshaft, set handbrake, remove remaining bolts (6 total) and the 3 shiny guide clips. You can use some 2X4s shoved between the "U" bracket and the propshaft to keep it up and out of your way. No need to take the propshaft completely out.

25. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the boot that the shift stick goes into, to the underside of the center console tunnel. I think those are 10mm.

26. Lowering the engine cradle .......................
You'll see 6 very large bolts on the underside (4 of them are 19mm and 2 are 17mm). The middle ones on each side get removed and the 4 on the extremities only get backed out and NOT taken out completely. An impact gn will be handy here if you have one.

Make a 2' length of 2X4 and put it dead center along the oil pan. (You may need more blocks of wood to make up the distance so the jack pad will reach.) The aft end of the 2X4 can snug up against the tubular brace at the rear of the engine cradle but not under it. The front of the wood can be under the front jacking point (looks like an oxen's yoke). Put your floor jack under the middle of the 2X4 and support the weight of the car just till the car begins to rise off the front jackstands.
27. Remove the 2 middle bolts completely.
28. Back out the front hanger bolts about 1" to 1.5". (If you have a supercharger, lower as far as you can without hitting the bottom of the blower onto the front cross bar. Start at 1".)
29. Remove the 3 rear tranny brace bolts. BE CAREFULL as you remove the last one completely. The weight of the tranny may cause the end of the tranny to "pop" down a bit. You can easily hold the end of the tranny up while you remove the last bolt, then lower your hand.
30. Back out the rear engine cradle bolts to about 3".
31. Now go slowly lower the floor jack and ease the engine/tranny assembly down till it stops on its own and hangs there. You can keep the floorjack in place if you like.
32. Begin removing the tranny to engine bolts. Start with the lower ones first. There are 2 that goes from the tranny into the oilpan. There are 3 that go from the engine side into the tranny. (I think these are 14mm and 17mm)
33. STOP! You must now support the weight of the tranny before removing anymore bolts. I got a motorcycle jack and made some blocks of wood to make up the height difference to fit the contours of the underside of the tranny and also because the m/c jack doesn't quite go high enough. This method worked like a charm for me.
34. This is where you need about a 2.5' to 3' extension. The top 3 tranny bolts is why you had to lower the engine. Reach way in there to undo those and the tranny is free to yank back. One of these bolts also holds a wiring bracket, which you need to put back when re-installing.
35. Put a large screwdriver or prybar into that little hole at the bottom of the tranny where it mates up with the engine. Pry the tranny from the engine slowly. My m/c jack has wheels, so this made it even easier. Since the engine/tranny is slanted downward to the rear, you need to lower the m/c jack a wee bit at a time as the tranny comes back. Once it's about an inch to 1.5" away from the engine, it should be free and you can pull back some more and lower it to the ground. I then pivotted it back and forth to get it onto the floor, where I could pull it out the side of the car. You'll have to reverse this to get it back onto the jack later.

Now to the clutch .........................
36. This is where you need 12 pt. sockets (10mm for PP and 17mm for flywheel). Again, an impact wrench will help greatly.
Loosen each nut on the PP in a criss-cross fashion. Then remove them entirely in a criss-cross fashion. Hold the PP onto the flywheel till you have all the bolts out as the clutch disc will fall out and smack you one. When you take off the PP, disc and TO bearing, take note of how it all goes together so you know how it goes back. You DON'T want to put on the clutch disc or TO bearing backwards.
37. Remove all the flywheel bolts in criss-cross. The FW might be rusted on a bit, but just wiggle it and it'll come off. Bang on it gently with a rubber mallet if necessary.

NOTE: OK, while you have all the new parts at hand, play with them by putting them all together and see how it all goes. Match up the pins (3) on the FW with the holes in the PP and mark where they are on the PP with a felt pen. You're going to have your hands full later so these marks will help line up things. If your PP comes with some plastic plugs and metal washers in some of the holes, get rid of these plugs. They don't belong there and I don't know why they're shipped with them.

38. Put the new flywheel (or machined old one) on and hand tighten all the bolts with a rachet (criss-cross). Once you get to the point where the force begins to turn the engine, you can take one of the large tranny/engine bolts and push it through one of the non-threaded holes in the engine (from back to front) and leave only about 1/2" sticking out. You can then use a large screw driver or pry bar on that bolt with the tip in one of the flywheel teeth to hold it steady while you torque the bolts down. Do the torquing in 2 or 3 steps of increasing torque till you get to the final torque of 94 lb/ft.

39. Take the new clutch disc and grease the central splines with hi-temp grease. Don't go nuts with the grease as too much will get flung all over the place at high rpm.
40. If you have a clutch alignment tool, use it, however, it is NOT necessary. You can use any small diameter rod or broomstick handle. Use "Brake Cleaner" to clean off all oily residue from the flywheel and PP friction surfaces. Wipe clean, spray again and let dry a minute or two. Now, DON'T touch those surfaces again.
41. See where the FW pins are and where the holes on the PP are so you can hold it approx. right.
42. Assemble the clutch disc, then TO bearing, then PP on top of each other in the way they came off, onto the rod that's stuck into the flywheel hole. While holding it all against the flywheel, begin to put in 2 to 3 of the bolts in criss-cross fashion. Secure them with a turn or two and that should be enough that you can let go of the whole assembly. Put the remaining bolts in loosely but all even with each other. Continue to tighten them by hand till you can just barely shift the clutch disc around inside the PP. Don't worry about the TO bearing. It's always going to be a bit sloppy.
43. At this point, you will need to get your eyeball directly in line with the holes of the clutch disc and the hole in the center of the flywheel. Use the rod the move the disc around till you see that the holes are perfectly centered with each other. DON'T look at the hole in the TO bearing. It's irrelevent and can mislead you. You can see the edges of the hole of the FW centered in the disc hole. Keep shifting the disc till it no longer looks "lop-sided".
Use a rachet now to continue to tighten the PP in stages (criss-cross). Check between stages to make sure the holes are lined up still. You should see the dowel pins seat themselves into the PP alignment holes now. Once you get the PP flat up against the outer surface of the FW, make a last "eyeball" of the holes. Torque the bolts to 19 lb/ft using the same flywheel holding trick as before to prevent the engine from turning.
44. Use hi-temp grease to coat the inside surface of the hole of the TO bearing. Fill the groove with grease so it's more or less flush with the level of the hole bore. Also lightly grease the groove on the outside of the TO bearing where the release fork rides.
__________________________________________________ __

Tranny preparation ..............................
A. Lightly grease the splines on the input shaft (the rusty bits). Also grease the tubular sleeve that covers the last part of the splined shaft before it goes into the tranny. This is the sleeve that the TO bearing slides on.

B. Install the release fork just so you know how it goes and what parts touches other parts. Remember that the socket end of the fork faces backwards as it must mate with the ball of the slave cylinder piston. Take it off again and grease the 2 fork ends and the central pivoting rod that clips into the holder in the tranny casing. Install it again and then yank it straight out of its holder. You can hold it against the hole and shove a shop cloth into the hole to wedge the fork so it doesn't fall into the tranny casing while you're working. You could just as easily loop a wire around it to hold it in place. DON'T hold it in place with the fork ends to the front of the hole. You could pinch the fork between the inside of the tranny casing and the PP once the tranny is shoved back on. Hold it towards the back of the hole.

IF you are changing from an AP1 to an AP2 tranny, you'll have to retrieve the rear output shaft from the old tranny and put it on the new tranny. The bolt holes are different.

A. Unstake the nut (36mm) and remove it with an impact gun. Gently pry out the whole output shaft, taking note of the order and orientation of the washers and rings that come out. DO NOT damage the rubber oil seal ring. Swap it all with the other tranny. You'll need some kind of clamping device to hold the output shaft from turning as you torque it back on (119 lb/ft). I used a Kevlar strap type filter wrench (1/2" drive). Once you torque it down, loosen it and torque it down again and you're done with this part.
B. Transfer the shaft lever housing (that rubber boot thing that was bolted to the underside of the console). Make sure you take the 2 dowel pins with you and remember where they go. There's only 2 of them and they sit in diagonal holes. While the housing is off, grease the end of the tranny shift rod. It's that ring looking thing on the very end of the rod inside the "cave":

C. You'll need to transfer any brackets and bolts over to the new tranny. Just stand back and look at them all to see what's missing. They'll be pretty obvious.
D. Transfer the tranny rear mount over.
___________________________________________

Before you toss the tranny back under the car, take the stick shift, shove it into the hole and put it in gear (4th will do, so pull straight back). Put the stick shift back into "storage". This trick will allow you to grab the output shaft and rotate it back and forth to help align the splines in the input shaft of the tranny with the splines in the clutch disc.

Now you have to wrestle the tranny back under the car and onto your jack, lift it up while keeping all the wiring bundles clear. Set the wood blocking in the same way so that the tranny is angled the same way as when it came off.

45. Raise it up and move it forward until the end of the input shaft reaches the TO bearing hole. Push and lift it little by little till the shaft touches the clutch disc splines. Then you must grab the end output shaft and rotate it back and forth till the splines of the tranny seats into the disc center splines. Then continue to wiggle and shove till you get as much of the shaft in as possible.
46. Put in 2 opposing bolts (one on each side of the casing). Do the ones that go from front to back (into the tranny). Thread them as far as you can by hand, then use a rachet to turn them in stages. You should see the tranny slowly suck itself flush with the back of the engine. Make sure you rotate the tranny so that the 2 dowel alignment pins are matched with the corresponding holes.
47. Once the tranny is flush with the engine, shove the release fork into its holder to get that part out of the way. It'll rattle back and forth about 1/4" or less. That's the normal free play in it.
48. Put in all the remaining bolts that hold the tranny on. Leave the starter top bolt till later. Snug them all down with a rachet.
49. Torque the 3 top ones down (47 lb/ft), remembering which one had the wiring bundle bracket.
50. Torque the remaining 5 bolts. The big ones get 47 lb/ft. The smaller ones that goes into the oilpan get 33 lb/ft.
51. Re-attach all your wiring harnesses and brackets and speed sensor either now or as the assembly is raised.
51. Now, jack up the tranny till the rear mount touches the underside of the car.
52. Jack up the engine cradle till you get it up flush with the frame. You may need to begin to tighten the front cradle hanger bolts (evenly side to side) to help it up if you begin lifting the car off the jackstands and not making the engine go up anymore. Keep the jack loaded (raise it) as the engine goes up.
53. Put in the bolts to the rear tranny mount snug.
54. Tighten the rear engine cradle hanger bolts till they are snug.
55. Torque the front hanger bolts to 43 lb/ft.
56. Torque the rear hanger bolts to 85.3 lb/ft.
57. Install and torque the last 2 engine cradle hold down bolts to 85.3 lb/ft.
58. Torque the rear tranny mount bolts to 28 lb/ft.
59. Install the 4 bolts that hold the rear tranny boot to the underside of the center console. Move the propshaft around as needed to get the boot to clear. You may have to use a long screw driver to shift the boot around a bit to make the holes line up. The boot may have deformed a little during all the manipulations.
60. Before you put the clutch slave cylinder back on, grease up the ball of the slave cylinder piston end and the socket of the release fork end. You may need to gently push the piston back into the slave cylinder a bit. Don't worry if it creeps back out. That's normal.
61. You'll need to go through all these steps backwards to make sure you haven't forgotten to re-install something and to backtrack all the things you need to put back.

[Goku]

looks good to me I need to replace my clutch soon. New one has been sitting here for about a month. I'm just not looking forward to doing this. But this was very helpful, thanks

[griffon]

Great informative post.

[bc@F22C]

Great infomation! Thanks for sharing.
just curious. how many miles did you guys replace the clutch?

[repiv]

Originally Posted by bc@F22C

Great infomation! Thanks for sharing.
just curious. how many miles did you guys replace the clutch?

This was my first clutch change and it was unnecessary. I'm at about 45K miles now and I could have gone another 20K to 30K more, but I changed to an AP2 tranny and I bought the clutch kit months ago, so I just did both at the same time. There are S2000s driving around here with nearly 70K miles on the original clutch.

[bc@F22C]

Originally Posted by repiv

This was my first clutch change and it was unnecessary. I'm at about 45K miles now and I could have gone another 20K to 30K more, but I changed to an AP2 tranny and I bought the clutch kit months ago, so I just did both at the same time. There are S2000s driving around here with nearly 70K miles on the original clutch.

70K miles. that's pretty good.

[gotswap]

Excellent write up and would not have been able to do it alone!!

Couple items I would like to add.

Instead of removing the joint on the steering column I removed the 4 bolts on the steering rack.

Did not need to remove the belt tensioner or intake brace. All I did was remove the belt and the 2 bolts holding the alt in place. I was able to use a wobble head on 2 short extensions and put the socket in place from the bottom of the car then feed 2 long extensions to it.

The 2 top bolts on the tranny are easily accessed with 40" of extensions when the tranny has been dropped down.

Wobble heads are your freinds!!!!!

[stantaur]

Awesome thread. To bottom-line it for people considering replacing their AP1 trans with the AP2, is it accurate to say that all you need to do is to swap the old AP1's output shaft onto the AP2 trans that's going in?

[repiv]

Originally Posted by stantaur

is it accurate to say that all you need to do is to swap the old AP1's output shaft onto the AP2 trans that's going in?

Correct. You might want to get new propshaft to tranny output flange bolts. The service manual does advise this, however, I've re-used them before.

[Scott Howard]

I followed these instructions exactly and everything went well. Thanks

[Varrrooommm]

The instructions worked great. I recommend adding line to remove knock sensor before removing starter bolt. It is an easy removal, clears the line of site to the starter bolt, and saves you $100. plus when you break the knock sensor with your long extension.

[sixthandredline]

When I did this swap I was able to get to the starter bolt from the bottom of the car, no need to pull the belts or anything. Other than that I did nothing different. Awesome write up. The engine tilt method was spot on. Thanks man. I would also recommend getting some driveshaft to tranny bolts, mine were so seized on I had to cut a notch in 4 of em and use a chisel to break them loose.

[bimdub]

much to my surprise I found that you can remove the engine mounts, using a hoist to support the engine, and then lower it enough as well as tilt it without having to deal with the steering, or engine cradle.

[tr8al]

Have 2001 AP1 with 97k on clutch still grabs fine. Whats the projected time for R&R?

Originally Posted by repiv

There is already an existing "How To" on a clutch change on the internet, but I'll do this one with "NOTES" on steps that can be done differently and may prove to be better for many people.
(click for more pictures) ----

I got an AP2 tranny because of the revised secondary output shaft ratio, which is about an increase of 4% in mechanical advantage. I already had the J's 4.44 FD rear end. Coupled with this AP2 tranny, this gives me an effective FD ratio of 4.62 in the first 4 gears, while 5th and 6th is more like 4.4. This gives me back a couple hundred rpm at hiway speeds. It's a win/win deal. I'm still breaking in the new tranny, so I'm not bagging on it just yet, but so far, it gives the feeling that it pulls away from a stop much more easily and acceleration in the first 4 gears is easier and more brisk. I already have a Yellow Box for speed compensation with the 4.44 gears. With the new tranny, I had to dial in another +4% to bring the speedo and odo back to where it was before.
I also got the Hardtopguy clutch kit for more clamping force. Upon initial installation, I sensed that the pedal pressure was about 2X of the OEM PP, but now that I've driven around a bit more, I'll revise that to say it's somewhere between 1.5X and twice. This should do well for my supercharged application.
I can't honestly say that the CT lightweight flywheel gives me any sensation of better rev up since I got better gearing with the tranny, nor can I say that it revs down any quicker at gear shifts when the gas is let off. However, I can say that when the engine used to dip down below normal idle when hot and coming to a stop, the engine doesn't dip down nearly as much now and it comes back up to idle almost instantaneously. I guess maybe taking 5 lbs of rotating mass in the clutch does do something.
BTW. My old clutch has just over 72K kms. Putting the old and new disc end to end, the old one was thinner by about 1mm. This translated to my clutch pedal moving the friction point UP by about 1" to 1.5". It's interesting how, over the years, we just get used to the gradual change in the pedal position that we don't realize it. Now the pedal is right back to where it was when the car was new. Also, my clutch decel buzz is now gone. Honda revised the springs in the disc to take are of this annoyance.

Here are the pictures of my new AP2 tranny:


For those with the Helm service manual (2000/2001), the pages are as follows:
Shifter removal and engine lowering: 13-5 to 13-11
Clutch job: 12-7 to 12-11

NOTE: If you are likely to forget where all the nuts and bolts go, put them in little baggies and label each one. It would be a shame to finish up and find out you have some left over nuts or bolts and those are the ones that needed to go in BEFORE a whole bunch of stuff got put together.
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While you're still clean, take apart the shifter assembly ....................................
a. Remove the shift knob. With the stock one, you'll need to loosen the lock nut that's under the knob. Turn it like you're screwing it in. This will move it away from the knob. Then unscrew the knob.
b. Remove the center console cover and shift stick surround. It's one big piece that includes your elbow rest pad. There are 8 pressure clips all around the circumference of this cover. Work it up a bit with your fingers and push in a flat screw driver to pop each clip up. 4 of these are close to each extreme corner of the cover and the other 4 are spaced near the edges but about equidistant from the end ones. Work from the rear and move to the front, side to side.
Reach under the console and unclip all the wiring connectors (emergency flasher, top switch, defroster switch if present).
c. The next part is tricky. You'll see a white plastic retainer ring with 4 slots along the edges of the ring (see the pics and instructions in that link I put up). You need to use a small, narrow screw driver to push the pins inward to release the ring. Take it slow. They'll come out with ease if the pins are free.
d. Lift off the ring and shift boot. Take note how the boot is orientated. It's not perfectly symmetrically round.
e. Now you'll see another rubber boot. Note how it's orientated. The rubber "knob" points to the front and this is what you grab to begin to dislodge the boot. It seals all along the edges with the metal plate below it. Lift up to expose the 3 bolts one by one and remove these bolts (10mm). Note the shape of this metal plate and how it sits.
f. Note the angle of the stick as it sits in the hole. It may be easier to put the tranny into neutral. As you pull the stick out, you'll notice that it's attached to a plastic assembly with side pieces that fit into the corresponding slots in the hole. There should also be a spring that can be taken out. Keep all this in a small container on the floor of the footwell. It's all quite greasy, so put the end of the stick and spring inside a plastic bag so you don't get dust bunnies all over it.
NOTE: Before you re-install all this, grease the ball at the end of the stick. Grease the plastic assembly that slides into the slots of the tranny housing. Grease the slots that the stick slides into. Grease the spring.

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While the car is still on the ground ..................................................
NOTE: Disconnect the negative battery terminal (10mm). You'll need your radio code later.

1. Remove the airbox (10mm).
2. 14mm to lever the belt tensioner to get belt off. Note how it's routed.

A set of rachetting closed ended wrenchs will be very useful for the following:
3. Remove the 4 exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and take shield off.
4. Remove battery heat shield (10mm). There are 4 such bolts, the last one near the firewall only needs to be loosened as the heatshield there is slotted.
5. Loosen all 7 exhaust header nuts (12mm) till they are on the last few threads.
6. Remove top alternator bolt, loosen bottom one, rotate alternator to the side.
NOTE: Step 6 is to gain access to the infamous top starter bolt. At this stage, I found it far easier to simply remove the alternator altogether. Remove the bottom alternator bolt, unclip wiring connector and undo large power cable nut on the rear. Take the thing out altogether. When putting back in, lubricate the faces of the parts that the lower bolt goes into. It is very tight and you'll need it to slide around easier to match the holes up to get the bolt to go all the way through. DON'T hammer on it or you'll damage the bolt. If it's lined up right, it'll thread by hand. It's a very precise fit. I sprayed everything with WD-40.

7. Then remove the belt tensioner (a 6mm hex wrench is needed for this).

8. Remove the intake manifold brace. There are 4 bolts of different lengths, so label them all so you know where they go back. 2 go from underneath the manifold and up into the manifold. 2 more go horizontally into the belt tensioner mount.
9. Remove the belt tensioner mount (it's the shiny, flat thing with the hole in the middle). Leave the 2 bolts in the tensioner so you know which goes in which hole.

10. You may as well take out that top starter bolt now. You'll need a 14mm socket on the end of a 2.5' to 3' extension. You can actually see this bolt and get a fairly straight shot at it:

(It's the one that has a slight orange/reddish tinge to it.) With all the stuff out of the way, you can actually reach back there to take it out by hand if it doesn't stay stuck in the socket. To put it back in, put the bolt into the socket and push it through a small hole in a "baggie". Wrap the baggie around the extension and tape it. This will hold the bolt in place till you can get a few threads started. Then pull the baggie off the bolt head.
NOTE: Tape the socket to the end of the extension so you don't lose it.

NOTE:At this stage, you are instructed to remove the A/C compressor bolts (4). These are very difficult to access and I found it is NOT necessary to do this if you use the engine tilt method (discussed later). The only reason they want you to do this is that when you lower the engine evenly and completely, the A/C lines may not be long enough and will stretch on the front cross bar. Using the tilt method presents no issues for those lines. It is also NOT necessary to disconnect the A/C wiring harness.

11. Disconnect the 2 sensor harnesses at the end of the engine head by the firewall. One plugs in from the passenger side and the other plugs in from the firewall direction. This is to minimize the possibility of breaking the harnesses off when the back of the engine starts to lower. It can get close to the firewall.
12. Disconnect the large, grey hose that goes into the base of that round, dome shaped thing at the top back of the engine:


NOTE: At this point, you are to disconnect the steering rack electrical connectors (2). These can be also very hard to reach, let alone press the release clip and pull the connector apart. If you use the tilt method, this step is NOT necessary. Leave these connectors alone.

13. Remove the 14mm bolt at the rear of the intake manifold. This secures a metal support bracket that holds several wiring bundles and help support the intake manifold. You can see it here:


Now you can raise the car up onto jackstands. The tranny is about 17" from top to bottom, so you need at least this amount of height and clearance to get the thing out from under the car. I had my car up about 19". You'll need truck jackstands as the typical car ones don't go high enough. Most floor jacks won't go that high either, but you can have pieces of wood blocking to raise the floor jack that last few inches. I used 2X10s about 15" long and stacked them on top of the floor jack lift pad. Do this only after you have the car already secured on the jackstands going as high as the floorjack will go initially. Use the central front and rear jacking points for this.

14. From underneath, find the steering column joint. This is the one closest to the steering rack and has the open ended rubber boot on it. Have the steering wheel more or less pointed straight but unlocked (key in first position). If the locking bolts aren't pointed towards you, grab the front tire and move them till the joint bolt heads are facing you. Use a permanent felt marker and heavily mark the lower edge of the joint and steering column rod with a line that crosses both. This will act as a guide and alignment mark for when you are ready to put it back together again. Now go lock the steering column by taking the key out.
Remove the lower bolt completely. Loosen the upper one (the one poking through the rubber boot). You may need a pry bar to push the whole joint up towards the steering wheel so that it frees itself from the lower column.
NOTE: When putting this back together, make sure the alignment mark is true. Torque down the lower locking bolt. Now, turn the tire so that the upper locking bolt faces you. When you put your socket on it, push up firmly while your torque it down. This will eliminate any "schlop" in the steering that will result if you don't do this.

NOTE: It is now recommended that you remove the plastic central splash shield (just in front of the oil pan). It is NOT necessary unless you need access to something in there (like retrieving a dropped tool or nut). You can always do it if there is a need later. The centers of all the fasteners must get pried away by about 1/8", then the fastener can be removed. You will likely break some of these and you'll have to cut them out with side cutters. You can replace them with new ones or just use big zip ties to secure the shield. Best to just leave it alone.

NOTE: It is now recommended that you remove the engine bump stop. This is NOT necessary. Leave it.

15. Remember my last picture? (step 13). From underneath, find the other end of that metal brace and undo the other 14mm bolt. There is NO need to remove this brace. Just leave it hanging there. It will stay put as the engine comes down.

16. Just forward of the bolt in step 15, you will see a large ground cable bolted to the engine. Remove this bolt and let the cable dangle.

17. Go stuff something firm under the clutch pedal so it won't accidentally be depressed. I used an old plastic plant pot.
18. Remove the 2 (12mm) clutch slave cylinder bolts. DON'T touch the one that's at the end of the hydraulic line. Work the edges of the rubber boot out of the hole in the side of the tranny casing. Note how it seats itself for when it's time to put it back. Use a piece of wire to tie the slave cylinder and hang it out of the way of the tranny. DON'T yank on the little plunger inside the rubber boot or it'll fall out of the piston bore.
18a. Grab the release fork that's sticking out of the tranny casing hole and yank it straight out to dislodge it from its holder. Don't worry about securing this now. If it falls inside the tranny casing, you can get it later once the tranny's off. Note which direction the hollow socket end faces.

Now, onto the exhaust ........................
19. Remove the 3 nuts (14mm) at the tail end of the cat. Use lots of penetrant beforehand.
20. Remove the spring bolts at the front of the cat (12mm) wrench at each end of the nut and bolt.
Before you separate the cat from the rest of the exhaust, use a large crescent wrench to snap free the O2 sensor. Once you get the cat free, you can hold the sensor and spin the cat off. This way, you don't get the sensor wires all twisted up.
21. Remove the lower exhaust manifold bracket that secures the manifold to the side of the engine. Use a piece of wire the secure the exhaust manifold as far away from the tranny as possible. I tied the wire to the jackstand.
22. Now you've got a whole bunch of sensor connectors and harness stays to uncouple and disconnect from the tranny casing, including the back up light switch harness. Some of the wiring stays can be pinched from the backside of the brackets and pushed through the bracket, while others will simple have to be broken and zip tied on re-assembly. Some brackets can be unbolted from the tranny entirely, leaving the wiring attached. Take note of how many and where these are. They must all be free of the tranny before it will come down and out. You may have to lower the engine partially, then go undo some of these before lowering the rest of the way.
Disconnect the speed sensor harness from the tranny.

23. Pull handbrake firmly to lock driveshaft in place.
24. Remove what front propshaft bolts you can reach (6mm hex). Release handbrake, rotate propshaft, set handbrake, remove remaining bolts (6 total) and the 3 shiny guide clips. You can use some 2X4s shoved between the "U" bracket and the propshaft to keep it up and out of your way. No need to take the propshaft completely out.

25. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the boot that the shift stick goes into, to the underside of the center console tunnel. I think those are 10mm.

26. Lowering the engine cradle .......................
You'll see 6 very large bolts on the underside (4 of them are 19mm and 2 are 17mm). The middle ones on each side get removed and the 4 on the extremities only get backed out and NOT taken out completely. An impact gn will be handy here if you have one.

Make a 2' length of 2X4 and put it dead center along the oil pan. (You may need more blocks of wood to make up the distance so the jack pad will reach.) The aft end of the 2X4 can snug up against the tubular brace at the rear of the engine cradle but not under it. The front of the wood can be under the front jacking point (looks like an oxen's yoke). Put your floor jack under the middle of the 2X4 and support the weight of the car just till the car begins to rise off the front jackstands.
27. Remove the 2 middle bolts completely.
28. Back out the front hanger bolts about 1" to 1.5". (If you have a supercharger, lower as far as you can without hitting the bottom of the blower onto the front cross bar. Start at 1".)
29. Remove the 3 rear tranny brace bolts. BE CAREFULL as you remove the last one completely. The weight of the tranny may cause the end of the tranny to "pop" down a bit. You can easily hold the end of the tranny up while you remove the last bolt, then lower your hand.
30. Back out the rear engine cradle bolts to about 3".
31. Now go slowly lower the floor jack and ease the engine/tranny assembly down till it stops on its own and hangs there. You can keep the floorjack in place if you like.
32. Begin removing the tranny to engine bolts. Start with the lower ones first. There are 2 that goes from the tranny into the oilpan. There are 3 that go from the engine side into the tranny. (I think these are 14mm and 17mm)
33. STOP! You must now support the weight of the tranny before removing anymore bolts. I got a motorcycle jack and made some blocks of wood to make up the height difference to fit the contours of the underside of the tranny and also because the m/c jack doesn't quite go high enough. This method worked like a charm for me.
34. This is where you need about a 2.5' to 3' extension. The top 3 tranny bolts is why you had to lower the engine. Reach way in there to undo those and the tranny is free to yank back. One of these bolts also holds a wiring bracket, which you need to put back when re-installing.
35. Put a large screwdriver or prybar into that little hole at the bottom of the tranny where it mates up with the engine. Pry the tranny from the engine slowly. My m/c jack has wheels, so this made it even easier. Since the engine/tranny is slanted downward to the rear, you need to lower the m/c jack a wee bit at a time as the tranny comes back. Once it's about an inch to 1.5" away from the engine, it should be free and you can pull back some more and lower it to the ground. I then pivotted it back and forth to get it onto the floor, where I could pull it out the side of the car. You'll have to reverse this to get it back onto the jack later.

Now to the clutch .........................
36. This is where you need 12 pt. sockets (10mm for PP and 17mm for flywheel). Again, an impact wrench will help greatly.
Loosen each nut on the PP in a criss-cross fashion. Then remove them entirely in a criss-cross fashion. Hold the PP onto the flywheel till you have all the bolts out as the clutch disc will fall out and smack you one. When you take off the PP, disc and TO bearing, take note of how it all goes together so you know how it goes back. You DON'T want to put on the clutch disc or TO bearing backwards.
37. Remove all the flywheel bolts in criss-cross. The FW might be rusted on a bit, but just wiggle it and it'll come off. Bang on it gently with a rubber mallet if necessary.

NOTE: OK, while you have all the new parts at hand, play with them by putting them all together and see how it all goes. Match up the pins (3) on the FW with the holes in the PP and mark where they are on the PP with a felt pen. You're going to have your hands full later so these marks will help line up things. If your PP comes with some plastic plugs and metal washers in some of the holes, get rid of these plugs. They don't belong there and I don't know why they're shipped with them.

38. Put the new flywheel (or machined old one) on and hand tighten all the bolts with a rachet (criss-cross). Once you get to the point where the force begins to turn the engine, you can take one of the large tranny/engine bolts and push it through one of the non-threaded holes in the engine (from back to front) and leave only about 1/2" sticking out. You can then use a large screw driver or pry bar on that bolt with the tip in one of the flywheel teeth to hold it steady while you torque the bolts down. Do the torquing in 2 or 3 steps of increasing torque till you get to the final torque of 94 lb/ft.

39. Take the new clutch disc and grease the central splines with hi-temp grease. Don't go nuts with the grease as too much will get flung all over the place at high rpm.
40. If you have a clutch alignment tool, use it, however, it is NOT necessary. You can use any small diameter rod or broomstick handle. Use "Brake Cleaner" to clean off all oily residue from the flywheel and PP friction surfaces. Wipe clean, spray again and let dry a minute or two. Now, DON'T touch those surfaces again.
41. See where the FW pins are and where the holes on the PP are so you can hold it approx. right.
42. Assemble the clutch disc, then TO bearing, then PP on top of each other in the way they came off, onto the rod that's stuck into the flywheel hole. While holding it all against the flywheel, begin to put in 2 to 3 of the bolts in criss-cross fashion. Secure them with a turn or two and that should be enough that you can let go of the whole assembly. Put the remaining bolts in loosely but all even with each other. Continue to tighten them by hand till you can just barely shift the clutch disc around inside the PP. Don't worry about the TO bearing. It's always going to be a bit sloppy.
43. At this point, you will need to get your eyeball directly in line with the holes of the clutch disc and the hole in the center of the flywheel. Use the rod the move the disc around till you see that the holes are perfectly centered with each other. DON'T look at the hole in the TO bearing. It's irrelevent and can mislead you. You can see the edges of the hole of the FW centered in the disc hole. Keep shifting the disc till it no longer looks "lop-sided".
Use a rachet now to continue to tighten the PP in stages (criss-cross). Check between stages to make sure the holes are lined up still. You should see the dowel pins seat themselves into the PP alignment holes now. Once you get the PP flat up against the outer surface of the FW, make a last "eyeball" of the holes. Torque the bolts to 19 lb/ft using the same flywheel holding trick as before to prevent the engine from turning.
44. Use hi-temp grease to coat the inside surface of the hole of the TO bearing. Fill the groove with grease so it's more or less flush with the level of the hole bore. Also lightly grease the groove on the outside of the TO bearing where the release fork rides.
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Tranny preparation ..............................
A. Lightly grease the splines on the input shaft (the rusty bits). Also grease the tubular sleeve that covers the last part of the splined shaft before it goes into the tranny. This is the sleeve that the TO bearing slides on.

B. Install the release fork just so you know how it goes and what parts touches other parts. Remember that the socket end of the fork faces backwards as it must mate with the ball of the slave cylinder piston. Take it off again and grease the 2 fork ends and the central pivoting rod that clips into the holder in the tranny casing. Install it again and then yank it straight out of its holder. You can hold it against the hole and shove a shop cloth into the hole to wedge the fork so it doesn't fall into the tranny casing while you're working. You could just as easily loop a wire around it to hold it in place. DON'T hold it in place with the fork ends to the front of the hole. You could pinch the fork between the inside of the tranny casing and the PP once the tranny is shoved back on. Hold it towards the back of the hole.

IF you are changing from an AP1 to an AP2 tranny, you'll have to retrieve the rear output shaft from the old tranny and put it on the new tranny. The bolt holes are different.

A. Unstake the nut (36mm) and remove it with an impact gun. Gently pry out the whole output shaft, taking note of the order and orientation of the washers and rings that come out. DO NOT damage the rubber oil seal ring. Swap it all with the other tranny. You'll need some kind of clamping device to hold the output shaft from turning as you torque it back on (119 lb/ft). I used a Kevlar strap type filter wrench (1/2" drive). Once you torque it down, loosen it and torque it down again and you're done with this part.
B. Transfer the shaft lever housing (that rubber boot thing that was bolted to the underside of the console). Make sure you take the 2 dowel pins with you and remember where they go. There's only 2 of them and they sit in diagonal holes. While the housing is off, grease the end of the tranny shift rod. It's that ring looking thing on the very end of the rod inside the "cave":

C. You'll need to transfer any brackets and bolts over to the new tranny. Just stand back and look at them all to see what's missing. They'll be pretty obvious.
D. Transfer the tranny rear mount over.
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Before you toss the tranny back under the car, take the stick shift, shove it into the hole and put it in gear (4th will do, so pull straight back). Put the stick shift back into "storage". This trick will allow you to grab the output shaft and rotate it back and forth to help align the splines in the input shaft of the tranny with the splines in the clutch disc.

Now you have to wrestle the tranny back under the car and onto your jack, lift it up while keeping all the wiring bundles clear. Set the wood blocking in the same way so that the tranny is angled the same way as when it came off.

45. Raise it up and move it forward until the end of the input shaft reaches the TO bearing hole. Push and lift it little by little till the shaft touches the clutch disc splines. Then you must grab the end output shaft and rotate it back and forth till the splines of the tranny seats into the disc center splines. Then continue to wiggle and shove till you get as much of the shaft in as possible.
46. Put in 2 opposing bolts (one on each side of the casing). Do the ones that go from front to back (into the tranny). Thread them as far as you can by hand, then use a rachet to turn them in stages. You should see the tranny slowly suck itself flush with the back of the engine. Make sure you rotate the tranny so that the 2 dowel alignment pins are matched with the corresponding holes.
47. Once the tranny is flush with the engine, shove the release fork into its holder to get that part out of the way. It'll rattle back and forth about 1/4" or less. That's the normal free play in it.
48. Put in all the remaining bolts that hold the tranny on. Leave the starter top bolt till later. Snug them all down with a rachet.
49. Torque the 3 top ones down (47 lb/ft), remembering which one had the wiring bundle bracket.
50. Torque the remaining 5 bolts. The big ones get 47 lb/ft. The smaller ones that goes into the oilpan get 33 lb/ft.
51. Re-attach all your wiring harnesses and brackets and speed sensor either now or as the assembly is raised.
51. Now, jack up the tranny till the rear mount touches the underside of the car.
52. Jack up the engine cradle till you get it up flush with the frame. You may need to begin to tighten the front cradle hanger bolts (evenly side to side) to help it up if you begin lifting the car off the jackstands and not making the engine go up anymore. Keep the jack loaded (raise it) as the engine goes up.
53. Put in the bolts to the rear tranny mount snug.
54. Tighten the rear engine cradle hanger bolts till they are snug.
55. Torque the front hanger bolts to 43 lb/ft.
56. Torque the rear hanger bolts to 85.3 lb/ft.
57. Install and torque the last 2 engine cradle hold down bolts to 85.3 lb/ft.
58. Torque the rear tranny mount bolts to 28 lb/ft.
59. Install the 4 bolts that hold the rear tranny boot to the underside of the center console. Move the propshaft around as needed to get the boot to clear. You may have to use a long screw driver to shift the boot around a bit to make the holes line up. The boot may have deformed a little during all the manipulations.
60. Before you put the clutch slave cylinder back on, grease up the ball of the slave cylinder piston end and the socket of the release fork end. You may need to gently push the piston back into the slave cylinder a bit. Don't worry if it creeps back out. That's normal.
61. You'll need to go through all these steps backwards to make sure you haven't forgotten to re-install something and to backtrack all the things you need to put back.

[repiv]

Originally Posted by tr8al

Have 2001 AP1 with 97k on clutch still grabs fine. Whats the projected time for R&R?

I don't think anyone can put a timeline on this. I know of many S2000s with that kind of mileage and the original clutch is still working well. In the same token, I also know of S2000s that need a clutch job and they have barely passed 25K. It all depends on the driving. If you glaze it enough times, it'll need to be replaced, regardless of miles.
However, having said that, as the miles stack up, the thinner the clutch disc gets. If it gets thin enough, the friction material attachment spots will pop up and begin to gouge the flywheel and PP. Then you have no choice but to change it all. If you catch it before this happens, there is a better chance that the flywheel and PP can be machined and re-used.