Coolant line that runs to throttle body, is it necessary?

[small_tyme98]

I just added some oil to my car and was letting it idle in my garage with the hood open.
I walked into the house to get something came out a few minutes later and to my surprise when i came back my car was emanating a lot of steam from the aluminum piping of my cold air intake close to where the piping connects to the throttle body (very scary image!).

Upon further inspection, i noticed that the coolant line that runs underneath the throttle body was dripping a bit of coolant onto my serpentine belt and cold air intake piping.

This is the line in question: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/TelosHedge/Stuff%20FS/coolant.jpg

Is it possible to bypass this line without ill effect? The scariest part is when i went to shut my car off it was registering FIVE bars on the temp gauge!!! (This is an ap1 we are talking about, where 3 bars is the normal temp range). In my 3 years of owning this car i have NEVER seen the temp gauge exceed 3 bars, even after the longest drives on the hottest summer days.

The block didn't feel very hot at all and the car had only been idling maybe 10 minutes so i'm not sure how it could have gotten so hot. Could this reading have been falsified by the hot coolant leaking around my throttle body?

[griffon]

My question would be "how long has this been leaking"?

It doesn't take long to leak enough coolant to cause your engine to run hot. Let it cool down and check the radiator, not just the overflow tank.

Replace the hose. Check for other bad lines. Being an ap1 it may be a good time to replace all the coolant hoses if they have not already been.

This hose is there to provide coolant to heat the throttle body to prevent icing under certain conditions. I, personally, would not bypass it. The incoming air spends so little time and is moving so rapidly through the throttle body that this is not going to raise the incoming air temperature much, if at all.

On the other hand,if you bypass it,you may find yourself stranded someday.

[small_tyme98]

I don't know how long it has been leaking. I just noticed it tonight. But after inspecting my engine bay, i can find signs of coolant on my alternator, idler pulleys, and even on the side of the block so who knows how long it has been leaking. The temperature bars NEVER raised above 3 while driving, and I never smelled any coolant or anything so i'm not sure.

I just checked the overflow reservoir, it was at or slightly below the minimum level. When I took off the rad cap, the coolant was just below the top of the fins. Should the fins be completely immersed in coolant? If so, it may be a little low.

[repiv]

As Griffin said, that hose is to flow coolant through the throttle body to help heat it up. Remember that the throttle body is like a big venturi and air flowing through a venturi will speed up, decrease pressure and hence, cool down. There is another purpose to that coolant line. The coolant continues to the Idle Air Control system so the ECU knows when to phase out of cold fast idle. Without the coolant going through the IAC, it must heat up via convection and conduction and the ECU may take much longer to step down idle. During this time period, the A/F is much richer than normal. A few people have blocked that line on purpose thinking that it will help prevent overheating of the throttle body. A well known and trusted S2000 tech has indicated many times in the past that this is false economy. It may temporarily keep the TB cooler but convection and conduction within the engine bay will strip away that advantage very quickly. In the process, the ECU will run the engine in a way that is less efficient.

From the sounds of it, you have lost a considerable amount of coolant. Superheated steam may be what gives the temp gauge the reading you saw. You would be well advised to check ALL hoses that carry coolant and replace as necessary. Then do a complete coolant fill and bleed. There is a "How To" on this site telling you how to do this. Bleeding the cooling system in an S2000 is not difficult but it does involve steps that most other cars don't need to worry about.
As for the block not feeling hot, this may be the obvious sign that you have little to no coolant in the engine. The bulk of the heat produced in the engine is in the combustion chamber. This heat transfers through the walls to the coolant jacket surrounding the cylinders. If there is little to no fluid in that jacket, there is no liquid to convey that heat to the outside wall of the block and cylinder head. Pray you haven't burned up the engine and roasted the head gasket.

[repiv]

I just checked the overflow reservoir, it was at or slightly below the minimum level. When I took off the rad cap, the coolant was just below the top of the fins. Should the fins be completely immersed in coolant? If so, it may be a little low.
The overflow reservoir should generally be kept at the full mark when hot and at the "min" mark when cold. This should be looked at every time you check your oil and Honda recommends checking your oil every time you go through a tank of gas. Having the level that close to the bottom is bad news. The engine has sucked up as much fluid as it can and has likely been pulling in air for some time. Once it finishes cooling off and no longer pulls in air, the small amount of fluid in the overflow hose falls back into the reservoir, making it look like there's still some fluid left, when in fact, there really is none.
The fluid under the rad cap should be touching the bottom of the rad cap. You should NEVER even see the tops of the rad fins. Once the level gets down that far, it is impossible to know if it's just below or completely empty.

[small_tyme98]

also can i just go to an auto parts store and buy a piece of bulk heater hose to change this or is it molded? I'm guessing the hose is 3/8 or so ?

And is all the coolant going to spill out even if i disconnect the hose on a cold engine?

[repiv]

also can i just go to an auto parts store and buy a piece of bulk heater hose to change this or is it molded? I'm guessing the hose is 3/8 or so ?

And is all the coolant going to spill out even if i disconnect the hose on a cold engine?
Yes, you can get any heater hose of the right size. It's nothing special. Sorry, don't know the size offhand.
That hose is high up in the cooling system. Even if it's full, disconnecting it will lose you very little fluid. However, I have a feeling you don't have much coolant left in the system. You may have less than 1/2 the volume remaining. The system takes between 1.5 to 2 gallons.

[small_tyme98]

Thanks for the advice guys. Now you have me worried! I could definitely see the top of my rad fins so the coolant is low to some extent. Don't get me wrong the block was still hot, just didn't seem "holy s*** i'm at 5 bars on the temp gauge!" hot.

I have noticed the past couple days my heater is not functioning as it should, mostly blowing cold air. I guess I should haven taken that as a sign there was an issue with the coolant but for some reason that wasn't the first thing that came to mind.

I am not going to be able to pick up any honda coolant until monday afternoon and i need my car for work on monday, is there any non-honda coolant you would recommend as a temporary replacement until i can get some honda stuff?

[small_tyme98]

Sorry, forgot to mention my car is a 2001, supposedly they came with honda "type 2" coolant from the factory. Not sure how this will effect my choices for aftermarket coolants...

[desmo4]

Actually that hose is a metric size and molded to fit. You will find 3/8" too large. Best take a sample to the parts store or buy it from Honda. And I agree with Dave I hope you didn't blow the head gasket.

Jonathan

[small_tyme98]

Damn! I was hoping I would be able to just buy a piece of bulk heater hose from a parts store tomorrow and make that work, the bends don't seem too wild that the hose would get kinked...

I will buy the hose from honda if necessary i'm just cringing at the high price they probably sell it for.

And i really hope i didn't damage the head gasket, like i said the car never overheated at all while i was driving it, it only saw the 5 bars briefly while at idle so hopefully i'm ok in that respect.

[repiv]

Sorry, forgot to mention my car is a 2001, supposedly they came with honda "type 2" coolant from the factory. Not sure how this will effect my choices for aftermarket coolants...
It is Type II coolant. This is a specially formulated "long life" coolant. I'm not sure there is any long life coolant out there that is compatable with Honda's. The bulk of long life coolant in the aftermarket is "Dexcool", which is not the same as what Type II is.
Not knowing how much coolant you've lost, it would be very difficult to say if you can just top up with distilled water for the time being. Since we also do not know where you live and whether or not you are under freezing conditions, putting in just d. water cannot be recommended at this time.
Thus, I would suggest you get whatever coolant you can find and so long as the leak is taken care of, fill it and bleed it with that and at your first opportunity, do a complete and thorough flush to get rid of all the coolant that is in the system before putting in the proper Type II.
PS. The fact that your heater stopped working normally indicates you have a really big amount of air in the system, so the amount of coolant remaining is quite suspect. The temp gauge going to 5 bars was also a dead give away.

[repiv]

Damn! I was hoping I would be able to just buy a piece of bulk heater hose from a parts store tomorrow and make that work, the bends don't seem too wild that the hose would get kinked...

I will buy the hose from honda if necessary i'm just cringing at the high price they probably sell it for.

And i really hope i didn't damage the head gasket, like i said the car never overheated at all while i was driving it, it only saw the 5 bars briefly while at idle so hopefully i'm ok in that respect.

This may be of some help. I replaced that very same line a couple of years ago when I removed my aftermarket coolant temp sensor. I used 5/16" ID (7.9mm) fuel line and it's been solid to this very day. Yes, fuel line. Gasoline is a harsher "solvent" than anti-freeze will ever be. The clamps will keep it tight. You can use this till you get the real thing if you are worried about it.
As for the head gasket, only time will tell. If you start to burn coolant (white smoke out the tailpipe), you will then know. You can also do a leakdown test and compression test. That may also be revealing.

[small_tyme98]

Alright, I will purchase some 5/16 fuel line hose tomorrow and replace the old line and fill with some type of universal coolant til i can get my hands on some honda stuff.

It is often below freezing where I live so yeah the distilled water probably not such a good idea. The heater blowing cold air due to having air in the system makes sense, that line definitely has a pretty good leak so I can see how air would have gotten in. Lets just hope that's the only one that is leaking, but i may replace some other lines in the near future for peace of mind.

So when I am topping up the coolant, i should fill it right up to the neck of the radiator correct? Sorry kind of a newbie here.

[repiv]

So when I am topping up the coolant, i should fill it right up to the neck of the radiator correct? Sorry kind of a newbie here.
Go to the "How To" thread on the coolant flush and start at the part where you fill the system. You can do the whole thing later when you've got the right coolant.
http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=12152&highlight=coolant+flush
Basically, you need to heater control to full HOT. Open the rad cap, start the engine and begin pouring in the 50:50 mix of antifreeze. When it's as full as it can get, put the cap on. Open the bleeder near the throttle body till coolant comes out, close it. Then open the bleeder on the hard line at the firewall till coolant comes out, close it. Fill the reservoir to the full mark. The level in the reservoir will go down each time the engine cools. Top it up before you start the engine again. Does this each morning. You need to burp the air out over a couple of mornings and you may also still have a leak. Air gets in during the cool down process and not so much during the heat up process, but if you keep the reservoir full and the line between the rad neck and the reservoir is in good shape, much less air will get in if you still have a leak somewhere. If, after a couple of days, you are still putting in coolant, you've still got a leak.

[small_tyme98]

Thanks a lot Dave really appreciate the detailed instructions. Will attempt tomorrow and report back.

[S2KFAST]

Head gasket ( small leakage.)

If in fact it is. I wouldn't advise topping it off several mornings.
In order to find if the leak is hose related.

Why.? Because if it's not. An is H/Gasket issue. Last thing
you need is to inject water an coolant chems into the cylinders.
over several DAY'S
This can & WILL wash down the walls. i.e. No lube rings to bore.

Never fail simple U/do TEST. Bring the engine up to nornal
operating temp OK. But without the Rad cap on.
Once the thermo has opened you will notice fuild is moving.

Have a friend get in the car an QUIKLY rise & lower the eng RPM say
up to 4K an back dn to idle. Repeat several times. If you notice
the fuild level trying to rise out the Rad/cap opening, an or little
bubbles in the fuild. WELL then it's a head gasket issue.

GOOD LUCK,

S2KFAST.

[griffon]

I would replace the radiator cap also if it was my car. It's rubber seal is just as old as the hoses.

And have you ever changed the belt?

[griffon]

As Griffin said

BTW, RAPOV, not to pick nits(well maybe, just for you)but the handle is griffon, not griffin.:rofl:

[small_tyme98]

It is definitely the hose leaking. I visually saw it when my hood was popped and could physically feel underneath the hose that there was a leak.

I replaced the rad cap with a mugen rad cap about a year and a half ago, it looks fine.

I replaced the oem belt maybe a year ago with a gatorback belt so it should also be fine.

[small_tyme98]

Replaced the hose today with a piece of 5/16 fuel line as recommended by Dave, worked out great. After adding coolant car appears to have no more leaks and did not overheat at all.

I topped off the coolant with approximately 1.5 liters of prestone 50/50 longlife anti-freeze. I will do the complete flush sometime this week when i'm able to pick up some honda type 2 coolant.

My heater also blows hot air again now so all seems well; thanks again for the help boys.

[repiv]

I topped off the coolant with approximately 1.5 liters of prestone 50/50 longlife anti-freeze.
Did you fill the overflow tank? All in all, I'm guessing you lost about 2L of fluid - not that bad, but enough to produce an air pocket around the temp sensor and that's likely why you got 5 bars. I just checked and the coolant capacity of this engine and rad is 7.6L. You lost about 1/4 of the systems capacity. Still can't say if the head gasket is OK. Keep monitoring the coolant level over the next several months, especially through the hot summer months.

[small_tyme98]

Yeah I filled the overflow tank. You really think those couple minutes the car was idling where it reached 5 bars could have actually damaged the head gasket?? That would be pretty weak...as I have said in the years I have owned the car I have NEVER seen the gauge exceed 3 bars until the other night I find it far fetched to believe I could have done any serious damage in that short stint but I guess we shall see.

I assumed the temperature gauge is a bit of a dummy gauge and as you said the super heated steam probably caused the reading to be higher than what it really was.

I'm really not concerned about the head gasket, but I will continue to monitor the coolant level over the next little while.

[sdosmil77]

hey griffon funny thing is that griffin is an aftermarket performance radiator company. griffin racing radiators. ha!

[repiv]

hey griffon funny thing is that griffin is an aftermarket performance radiator company. griffin racing radiators. ha!
That's what I was thinking at the time.................................


















NOT! :tounge2:

[sdosmil77]

gotcha repiv. let me just remind u that u seem pretty good @ knowing our S's. niiiiiiiiiiiiiice!!!

[griffon]

Griffin Racing Radiators, Wire Haired Pointing Griffons.

Yeah, I can see how you could get mixed up.

Max doesn't understand it though. Better watch out for him at S2Kdays.:D

So you'll know him when you see him that's his picture on my avatar.

[sdosmil77]

thats fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuny!

[repiv]

So you'll know him when you see him that's his picture on my avatar.
Could have at least got the "red eye" out. :rolleyes:
(S2K Days is, at this point, only a small chance of happening for me. Still got it on the books, but won't know till the date gets closer.)

[repiv]

I just noticed that someone over at the "other" site is telling everyone to block or eliminate the coolant line to the TB and IAC. I can tell you that a very knowledgeable and skilled S2000 tech (and one of only 2 I trust) has stated unequivocally that this should not be done. It really serves no purpose and it might cause the ECU to run the engine in an inefficient way. Who do you want to listen to? Some joker who thinks he's done no harm to his engine operation because he suffers from the placebo effect or someone who knows an S2000 inside out?

[sdosmil77]

im not doin it. ive heard hp gains from that mod but not me. ill find hp elsewhere

[griffon]

I just noticed that someone over at the "other" site is telling everyone to block or eliminate the coolant line to the TB and IAC. I can tell you that a very knowledgeable and skilled S2000 tech (and one of only 2 I trust) has stated unequivocally that this should not be done. It really serves no purpose and it might cause the ECU to run the engine in an inefficient way. Who do you want to listen to? Some joker who thinks he's done no harm to his engine operation because he suffers from the placebo effect or someone who knows an S2000 inside out?

This old mechanic might not be very knowledgeable and skilled by repiv's lights but I was raised a mechanic and worked as a professional for many years before I saw there was much more(not to mention much easier) money to be made working in the nuclear industry.
I still am the only one who works on my cars and toys.

I can tell you straight out that heat is needed at the very least to prevent icing. And the way the computer is set up there is no free lunch. Everything you do affects something/everything else.

And speaking of heat have I told you about a nice hot drink called a Tom & Jerry that is guaranteed to warm the cockles of your heart? Everyone likes warm cockles.:o

[griffon]

Could have at least got the "red eye" out. :rolleyes:
(S2K Days is, at this point, only a small chance of happening for me. Still got it on the books, but won't know till the date gets closer.)

When I was a kid "Giving a shot of redeye" had a whole different meaning.:rofl:

Max was staring at the parrot on my shoulder.

[repiv]

I can tell you straight out that heat is needed at the very least to prevent icing. And the way the computer is set up there is no free lunch. Everything you do affects something/everything else.
But you're probably smart than the average bear. Some people think that if it's not cold outside, stuff can't freeze and thus, don't need to be warmed. They fell asleep during physics class on the part dealing with air speed, low pressure zones and temp change. (Why do piston aircraft need "carb heat" in the middle of summer?)

[griffon]

You mean how things freeze a bit easier at lowered pressure because of altitude? Plus add in the lowered pressure of engine vacuum and a venturi?

Naww,couldn't happen.

That stuff is just PFM.

[jbee808]

Wasn't there an "Air Box Mod" that made reference to the Throttle body mod on this site?

Unless it starts snowing in Hawaii, I don't have worry about icing....

[griffon]

Wasn't there an "Air Box Mod" that made reference to the Throttle body mod on this site?

Unless it starts snowing in Hawaii, I don't have worry about icing....

You are missing an important point. Your ecu expects the throttle body to be heated to the temperature it was designed for. Your engine may.not run right if it is not.

Even if you only drive in death vally.

Of course it's all just PFM, so it doesn't really matter. LOL

[griffon]

But you're probably smart than the average bear.

I think that a bear is catholic.

Or is it that the Pope...?

Aww, forget it.

[griffon]

Wasn't there an "Air Box Mod" that made reference to the Throttle body mod on this site?

Unless it starts snowing in Hawaii, I don't have worry about icing....

Hey repiv,

You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink.

Or can you?

Two guys are driving through the desert and their car breaks down.
They walk and walk , until they reach a horse ranch and they talk to the rancher about buying a horse.
The Rancher does have horses for sale but the guys only have $40, The Rancher says " look i can sell you this very old horse he's not going to live long because he's stopped drinking water, but he might get you into town if you can get him drink there's a stream beyond those trees over there"
The guys take the very old horse to the stream but he won't drink they hold his head down, the horse's lips on the cool running water.but it doesn't drink.
Then one of the guys has an idea and says " if I hold his head down and you suck on his butthole it might cause enough suction he might start taking some water in"
The other guy gets behind the horse lifts it's tail and starts sucking.
Amazingly the horse begins drinking. The guy holding his head says"it's working!!.....keep going!"
The guy on the horse's rear starts coughing and spitting and yells " pull up his head he's sucking up mud!"
:rofl:

[repiv]

Good one. Horses .......................... don't you just shoot them when they go lame and don't you send them to the glue factory when they don't work? :p

[griffon]

Good one. Horses .......................... don't you just shoot them when they go lame and don't you send them to the glue factory when they don't work? :p

My wife has been talking about this but we don't own a horse. I wonder what she means?

[repiv]

Goku, you seem to be a very excitable person. Not very convincing at all.
And it's odd that our ECU does not read TB temps. It reads the intake manifold air temp at the rear of the engine, so you must have a miracle ECU that reads it at the TB.
High altitude flying is not the only place where pilots use "carb heat". It's mostly during take offs and landings where the A/F is made as rich as possible, somewhat like what a modern day car does during a cold start.
It's only you who is talking strictly in terms of "icing". We've been talking about cold starts and how the ECU runs the engine after a cold start. We've been talking about what the ECU does with the IAC as it senses coolant temp. Stop focussing on one thing and stop getting your tail in a knot over something that isn't even happening. You say we've been putting down a mod. Nobody has been doing anything of the sort. You are overly sensitive to what you think might be said about something you did. Just as this forum should be a place to put forth information, it is also a place where we can discuss and have opinions on whether or not it's useful.

[repiv]

I could tell you the same thing. When I'm talking about TB temps I am refering to the manifold sensor which yes it on the back of the intake plenum. The air is heated as it goes thru the TB which is part of this mod. It still does not change what I said. I have data you have hear say and whatever you think. Come back with some hard numbers and we can talk.

Oh did you miss the part in my post where I said my car starts fine in cold temps. No Cel's or any problems with ANYTHING. Guess you missed that.

"Starting fine" and not getting any CEL means nothing in this situation. This still does not negate the fact that the ECU is running the engine under parameters that are not at its fullest efficiency or design specs. When one of the best S2000 techs states on an internet forum that this mod is not recommended, I tend to believe him. That's NOT hear say.
I don't need to come back with any numbers at all, because your numbers are based on assumptions of what a sensor sees in a part of the engine that is far removed from what you say it is.
No, I am not going to continue this with you. You have demonstrated your intemperate disposition many times in the past and I think it is now time discontinue our interaction on this forum. Noone can discuss anything with you, since you get so easily offended if someone doesn't see your way. You have just a wonderful day.

[repiv]

I like how you get to run around this place and break all the rules and call me names, while I never called you any names or insulted you. People like you are the reason this place has died off and one of the reason why I did not renew my member ship.
What "name" might that be? If you are talking about "intemperate disposition", this is NOT calling you any names. It is a description of your personality. Please learn to read and understand the english language.
Yes, we all know how you think this place has "died off" from your rant of some months ago, yet you keep coming back to make this place the very same that which you detest. Very interesting.
This is my last response to you. It's just not worth the skin.

[jc-s2000]

this is a mod i may have tried if i were "younger" but it's definitely a good read. thanks xviper. i don't think honda would've included this tb line if it were not for a good reason/design. i'm not going to mess with it by trying to find that elusive 1 hp if at all.

[repiv]

this is a mod i may have tried if i were "younger" but it's definitely a good read. thanks xviper. i don't think honda would've included this tb line if it were not for a good reason/design. i'm not going to mess with it by trying to find that elusive 1 hp if at all.
You're right, there is rhyme and reason for this to exist but I'm not saying to not try it. All I'm saying is that there is a "give and take" when doing it. It may alleviate one thing but there are also underlying things that you must accept if you do it. Heck, I was going to do it myself last year by installing a valve that I could turn on and shut off the coolant flow. I just never got around to doing it. But had I done it, I would have realized and accepted the fact that the ECU would do something that it would not normally do. It's a cost/benefit sort of thing. We must see it for what it really is.

Oh and BTW, here is a link to that S2000 expert I was talking about. Slows2k and Billman250 are the only two S2000 techs that I would trust without any doubt when they say anything to do with this car:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=389111&st=0&#entry7693297

And this isn't the first time this topic has come up:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=376527&st=0&#entry7398531

[jc-s2000]

those threads seem to point out more to the frustration of trying to get the point across of actual design/function with those who are adamant in their belief that a particular point they are making supersedes the true design/function. :D

[S1997]

This question may be off topic here, but it does concern coolant temps. When my MY07 was still NA, I installed 'cool kit' items -- one step cooler plugs, Mugen radiator cap, and Mugen thermostat -- it has no fan switch because it is an AP2 with DBW. Then a year later I installed a KW high boost SC kit. My ECTs were sometimes very high at the track in the summer times, so I installed a larger Laminova oil cooler and a dual core radiator. The ECT was then great in the summer, but once the weather started to get cooler, my ECT hardly ever exceeds 165F on the interstate. When standing still and idling, it goes up to 205F before dropping when the fans come on.

My question is this:

Is 165F ECT at cruising hot enough for the engine to run at optimal efficiency, or should I go back to the OEM thermostat -- or install a radiator shroud -- or just leave it alone? As is it runs great at the track ánd on the interstate, but I notice that the highway cruising fuel mileage is lower than it was before I installed the larger radiator.

[repiv]

It can be tough to have a heavily modified car for track and street use. What you need for the track may not work optimally on the street.
165*F is just under 74*C. We all know that on an AP1 car, we can't engage VTEC until the "3rd bar" on the temp gauge, which is 77*C (or 170*F). AP2s will have a similar requirement but those gauges exhibit more "bars" - same temp, but a different representation. If you had a stock ECU, at 165*F, you would not be able to engage VTEC and you might even throw a CEL if it stayed at 165 for too long. If stock ECU, yours would be one of those cars whose owners comment about never getting more than "2 bars" (on AP1 - don't know how many bars on AP2) and a CEL.
190*F (or about 90*C) is considered to be the more optimal running efficiency for most modern day engines. Usually, a colder engine runs richer. Running hot at the track can mean one of several things. One of these being as simple as the car just working harder, so that would normal. Another would be that your engine is leaning out too much and your internal temps are rising too much, which would be cause for concern. However, a blown engine will tend to run hotter simply because it's pumping out more ponies. Just make sure it's not because of leaning out. Read spark plugs after a track run or get the A/F read at high boost and high rpm.

[S2KFAST]

To Hot to COLD.!!

Easy an, very easy fix. Keep to the big core radiator. Winter fix. A. Cut a piece of
say 1/4" plywood the width of the radiator face.? X Say 8" tall. Then drill (2) 2mm
holes@ ea end of the P/W. Place@ the bottom of the Rad grill side. Then secure
with 2 small nyl wire tie's through the core holes Carefully. You have blocked-off
X=%.? of the cooling surface. Test drive coldest part of the night. If it heats up then.
Remove or add inches of the width until you have a range.
B. Come's warmer to hot weather remove it. Store until next winter..

S2KFAST. p.s. this cheap fix has worked for my different turbo car's over the last 25yr's.
As well as my N/A S.C.C.A race car's.