Cruise Control

[CitadelBlue]

I know .... its a sports car ... who uses cruise control ...

How about ...... when you have the cruise control on (oh .. and you are driving on the interstate and don't want to get a ticket so you set it a bit above the posted speed limit) and you turn on the blinker to change lanes to go around the guy going 10mph BELOW the limit .... the cruise control turns itself OFF ..... Is this normal :confused: :confused:

Ken
Burke, VA

[repiv]

The cruise will turn itself off if you touch the clutch or the brake pedals or hit both the buttons at the same time (middle button on the AP2). Otherwise, it should just stay on. If you've touched nothing except the turn signal, then you probably have a short somewhere in the steering wheel area.
Oh, and I use the CC all the time on a road trip. It minimizes fatigue when driving for hours on end.

PS, Do you happen to have a speed compensator like the Yellow Box or Yellow Jacket?

[CitadelBlue]

If you've touched nothing except the turn signal, then you probably have a short somewhere in the steering wheel area.
Oh, and I use the CC all the time on a road trip. It minimizes fatigue when driving for hours on end.

PS, Do you happen to have a speed compensator like the Yellow Box or Yellow Jacket?

No speed compensators ... and I touch nothing except the turn signal ..... so where do I begin looking :confused: :confused:

[kgf3076]

Afternoon, Ken..nice to see you here. I'm sure Dave can get you started on hunting down that short (he's good with that stuff :D)

[whitemike711]

First thing you need to do is pull out your battery
Second you need to pull your steering wheel out
Third you need to pull your dash apart
Fourth you need to stop using your cruise control
Fith I'm joking, Dave will point you in the right direction :LOL: good luck

[repiv]

No speed compensators ... and I touch nothing except the turn signal ..... so where do I begin looking :confused: :confused:

This can become a somewhat dangerous procedure since it involves working with and around the airbag. First, you must disconnect the battery negative terminal and wait at least 3 minutes (I'd give it a good 10 minutes to be sure) before doing anything with the steering wheel components. Make you have your radio code first or you won't be able to get it to work again after you put the battery back together.
Next, you must remove the airbag. This involves getting behind and under the steering wheel and removing the bolts. There's an access panel on the left side. This needs to be pulled off. Then you disconnect the airbag wiring harness. Then you will see a Torx bolt (T30 bit) that needs to come out. On the other side, there is another Torx bolt. This is behind another smaller access panel that you pull off. The airbag should now lift off. Disconnect the horn harness and you can put the airbag aside. DON'T DROP IT!
Now you can see all the wiring for the CC. You need to trace this wiring as far as you can go to see if there are any places where the wires might be frayed or if anything weird happens to the wiring when you move the signal light stalk. Something might be getting pinched. The rest, you're going to have to play detective.
At this point, you may even have to pull the steering wheel to see where the wires go into the signal lever housing. If you don't have a steering wheel puller, this will be an impossible job. Electrical gremlins are some of the toughest things to track down. Good luck.

[repiv]

First thing you need to do is pull out your battery
Second you need to pull your steering wheel out
Third you need to pull your dash apart
Fourth you need to stop using your cruise control
Fith I'm joking, Dave will point you in the right direction :LOL: good luck
Now, now, don't scare him too much. I think my post has probably scared him enough. :nervous:

[batguano]

Now, now, don't scare him too much. I think my post has probably scared him enough. :nervous:

it sure scared me Dave:shocked:

[mlc]

This can become a somewhat dangerous procedure since it involves working with and around the airbag. First, you must disconnect the battery negative terminal and wait at least 3 minutes (I'd give it a good 10 minutes to be sure) before doing anything with the steering wheel components. Make you have your radio code first or you won't be able to get it to work again after you put the battery back together.
Next, you must remove the airbag. This involves getting behind and under the steering wheel and removing the bolts. There's an access panel on the left side. This needs to be pulled off. Then you disconnect the airbag wiring harness. Then you will see a Torx bolt (T30 bit) that needs to come out. On the other side, there is another Torx bolt. This is behind another smaller access panel that you pull off. The airbag should now lift off. Disconnect the horn harness and you can put the airbag aside. DON'T DROP IT!
Now you can see all the wiring for the CC. You need to trace this wiring as far as you can go to see if there are any places where the wires might be frayed or if anything weird happens to the wiring when you move the signal light stalk. Something might be getting pinched. The rest, you're going to have to play detective.
At this point, you may even have to pull the steering wheel to see where the wires go into the signal lever housing. If you don't have a steering wheel puller, this will be an impossible job. Electrical gremlins are some of the toughest things to track down. Good luck.

Good luck..man! This post scared the hell out of me and I have rebuilt an engine before. I HATE electrical problems.

Sorry.

Kevin

[whitemike711]

Now, now, don't scare him too much. I think my post has probably scared him enough. :nervous:

I figured i could lighten the situation up a bit. :LOL:

[Wanderer]

I was unaware of the CC disengage by depressing both buttons.

Just curious, How repeatable is the malfunction? Does it happen at a particular steering wheel position? Not sure about the S, but it might be able to be confirmed by using a miltimeter at the steering wheel electrical connector. If confirmed, then the wheel removal procedure could happen... (Yes, disconnect the battery negative prior to testing)

[repiv]

I figured i could lighten the situation up a bit. :LOL:
A little fear is always a good thing when it comes to airbags. ;) I've seen first hand what an airbag going off can do to a person. Let's just say one needed his bottom lip sewn back on and the other needed a skin graft on her whole forearm. :shocked:

[repiv]

I was unaware of the CC disengage by depressing both buttons.
The AP2s have a third middle button which basically pushes both the other buttons simultaneously. In the AP1s, an early mod was to hold both buttons down and use a pair of fine side cutters and clip as much of dividing plastic as you could. That way, you could easily just put a thumb or finger in the middle between the 2 buttons and push them both. I did this years ago.

[CitadelBlue]

This occurs as soon as I put on my turn signal to change lanes ...... I haven't been in this area before and you know ... :shocked: :shocked: I may LIVE with this problem a bit more until maybe I meet up with Dave (repiv) at some future event someday ...... maybe I can be the topic of a tech day or tech demo ....

Ken


PS Thanks Dave .....

[repiv]

This occurs as soon as I put on my turn signal to change lanes ...... I haven't been in this area before and you know ... :shocked: :shocked: I may LIVE with this problem a bit more until maybe I meet up with Dave (repiv) at some future event someday ...... maybe I can be the topic of a tech day or tech demo ....

Ken


PS Thanks Dave .....
The next most likely chance would be S2K Days in Asheville next summer. Remind me to bring a steering wheel puller. :laugh: That is, if you can wait that long to get this attended to.

Does it matter whether it's a left or right turn signal? If it's both, I'm inclined to think the problem may be more complicated in that it could involve the cable reel on the steering column. If it's just one side, it might be more related to the physical movement of the turn signal stalk where this might be impinging upon the CC wiring.

[Wanderer]

The AP2s have a third middle button which basically pushes both the other buttons simultaneously. In the AP1s, an early mod was to hold both buttons down and use a pair of fine side cutters and clip as much of dividing plastic as you could. That way, you could easily just put a thumb or finger in the middle between the 2 buttons and push them both. I did this years ago.


I had heard of folks removing the plastic divider piece, now I understand why!

Thanks Dave!! Put yourself down for a gold star :thumbup:

[CitadelBlue]

The next most likely chance would be S2K Days in Asheville next summer. Remind me to bring a steering wheel puller. :laugh: That is, if you can wait that long to get this attended to.

Does it matter whether it's a left or right turn signal? If it's both, I'm inclined to think the problem may be more complicated in that it could involve the cable reel on the steering column. If it's just one side, it might be more related to the physical movement of the turn signal stalk where this might be impinging upon the CC wiring.

No problem ..... I can wait ... and no it doesn't matter whether its a left or right turn signal.

[CitadelBlue]

We discussed this in another thread http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=32410 but thought it fit better here ..... I haven't done anymore on the repair, but came across this RE: a Chrysler recall ..... http://www.allpar.com/fix/clockspring.html ... and thought that I might need a "clock Spring" for my S2000. Although I wasn't going to attempt to do the "open and inspect" looking for a short or even the repair ... but should we meet in Ashville in August ..... I was wondering if our S2000 had a clock spring and whether I should have one on hand ......

Thanks

[Stratocaster]

What if any modifcations have you on your car? Trailer hitch? Trailer light harness?

Because if you use the wrong type of harness or adapter, when the turn signal lights, the brake light flashes (in the 04+ tail lights). This voltage is then passed back through the cluster and the CPU in the cluster sees it a brakelights. So it turns off the Cruise Control.

I know this because I had the same problem. Once I removed the harness, everthing was back to normal. And I was not the only know, there is another thread here where a local owner (Coop) had the same issue and this is how it was uncovered.

Oh, and we don't have a clock spring to replace.

[Stratocaster]

I had heard of folks removing the plastic divider piece, now I understand why!

Thanks Dave!! Put yourself down for a gold star :thumbup:

You can also swap the AP2 switch and subharness for the AP1 switch. I know, i have done that long ago.

[CitadelBlue]

What if any modifcations have you on your car? Trailer hitch? Trailer light harness?

Because if you use the wrong type of harness or adapter, when the turn signal lights, the brake light flashes (in the 04+ tail lights). This voltage is then passed back through the cluster and the CPU in the cluster sees it a brakelights. So it turns off the Cruise Control.

I know this because I had the same problem. Once I removed the harness, everthing was back to normal. And I was not the only know, there is another thread here where a local owner (Coop) had the same issue and this is how it was uncovered.

Oh, and we don't have a clock spring to replace.


Hummm .. that makes sense ....Yep .... I have a hitch and wire harness ...... It's one of those universal ones that converts the individual lights (like on our 04 S) to the dual function turn/brake light (like the ones on most trailers). Without going in the trunk and taking it apart to post the make and model of the harness, is there one that works? ANd should I be able to see the brake light flash when I use the turn signal?

[Stratocaster]

Nah, that is your problem. that is what bridged the curcits. The adapter you need, is about $50 and I bet that is NOT what you have. it connects to each of the light curcits, 12+ and ground. It isolates the existing curcits from the trailer curcits. The $50 is a box about the size of a deck of cards. Maybe Coop will post up.

[Stratocaster]

Here is what you are looking for.
http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/1/1/119176.jpg
http://www.etrailer.com/p-119176/Upgraded-Modulite-Circuit-Protected-Vehicle-Wiring-Harness-with-4-Pole-Trailer-Connector.html

[repiv]

Looks like Stratocaster may have found the problem for you. :thumbup:
Nevertheless, if you do need to pull the steering wheel, a puller is only about 20 bucks anyway and Rick's Accessories site has a pictorial "How To" on taking the steering wheel apart.

[4U2NV]

Threads merged to reduce confusion/redundancy.

[CitadelBlue]

My unit LOOKS like the one above but since I purchased it in 2002, I bet it's NOT the Upgraded Modulite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness .......and I know I didn't pay the $50 for it. .....

I'll disconnect the one I have and do a test run .....

Thanks for the insight .... you guys are great.

[repiv]

Oh, and we don't have a clock spring to replace.
Not saying that this needs to be replaced in this case, but although we don't have a "clock spring", we do have a "cable reel", which does the same sort of job.

[CitadelBlue]

My unit LOOKS like the one above but since I purchased it in 2002, I bet it's NOT the Upgraded Modulite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness .......and I know I didn't pay the $50 for it. .....

I'll disconnect the one I have and do a test run .....

Thanks for the insight .... you guys are great.

I'm betting this WAS the problem. Although we are geting hit with 14+ inches of snow in Northern VA today, I did turn the emergency flashers on this AM and saw that the brake lights were also flashing. Sooooo I disconnected the OLD harness and I'll hook up the newer UPGRADED unit when I can move around in the garage. Although the instructions say to connect the module directly tot he battery, I was thinking of running the power directly to the hot side of the fuse panel so the unit would be OFF when the ignition is off. Can you give me some inside how I can easily run a power line from the trunk to the fuse panel without too much dismantiling?

[repiv]

Can you give me some inside how I can easily run a power line from the trunk to the fuse panel without too much dismantiling?
Popping the fasteners for the trunk liner is your best bet. You can then slide the liner out of the way to gain access to whatever you need. Then remove the driver's side panel behind the seat (the thing with the hooks on it). This will give you direct access to the trunk and with the liner loose, you can push a wire to the cabin. From there, you can hide the wire behind trim and carpet and end up at the fuse panel.

[Coop]

The unit might not work if it do not have power, ie; you may not have emergency flasher, so be sure to check it before you put everything back together.

[Goku]

glad you guys figured it out. yes you must have a trailer harness that is powered off the bat to avoid the cancel of the CC. I do this for a living and have seen it many times. Use a powered harness and your problems will go away. GL. Btw the harness linked to before in this post is exactly what you need.

[Goku]

The unit might not work if it do not have power, ie; you may not have emergency flasher, so be sure to check it before you put everything back together.


yes the unit must be powered at all times by a 12v source to work properly. If its only powered when the car is on the tail lights will not work right when the car is off. Also there is a plug on the fuse box that is 12v all the time. I run all my harness I do to that plug on the fuse box. That is the best place to go to not have to run a wire outside the car.

[CitadelBlue]

The unit might not work if it do not have power, ie; you may not have emergency flasher, so be sure to check it before you put everything back together.

glad you guys figured it out. yes you must have a trailer harness that is powered off the bat to avoid the cancel of the CC. I do this for a living and have seen it many times. Use a powered harness and your problems will go away. GL. Btw the harness linked to before in this post is exactly what you need.

yes the unit must be powered at all times by a 12v source to work properly. If its only powered when the car is on the tail lights will not work right when the car is off. Also there is a plug on the fuse box that is 12v all the time. I run all my harness I do to that plug on the fuse box. That is the best place to go to not have to run a wire outside the car.

Tomorrow sounds like the day to do this ..... +1 is working so the other 1/2 of the gargae will be open .... I'll locate that 12v all the time plug an dgo from there ..... :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

[CitadelBlue]

Popping the fasteners for the trunk liner is your best bet. You can then slide the liner out of the way to gain access to whatever you need. Then remove the driver's side panel behind the seat (the thing with the hooks on it). This will give you direct access to the trunk and with the liner loose, you can push a wire to the cabin. From there, you can hide the wire behind trim and carpet and end up at the fuse panel.

Will do .. and thank you ...