repiv
10-12-2009, 08:36 PM
(Reprint series)
Question: I am getting ready to install my koyo radiator and samco hoses. I was reading your coolant flush write up and I had some question. So when the car is complete cold I drain the fluid then I put the drain plug back in. The I fill it up with distilled water then I run the car. OK here is the question if the car is cold when I drain it then fill it with distilled water don't I have to let it fully warm up with distilled water in it to allow the thermostat open? Also I am really confused on the process of bleeding the air out?
Reply: No need to run it very long. You don't want it to get too hot. Less than a minute will do. Just make sure the heater knob on the dash is all the way to HOT. Even with the thermostat closed, when you pour in the fluid, it will run backwards to fill the other side of the stat. It won't fill it all but enough to do the job. When you start the engine, the water pump will still flush fluid through the heater core and many of the other water channels even with the stat closed.
On your final fill with the proper coolant, fill it to almost the top of the radiator neck. Leave a little room for fluctuations in level. Remember, have the heater knob to HOT. When you start the engine, be ready to open the bleeder valve on near the intake manifold. Pour in more coolant as needed and slightly rev the engine to get the water pump moving faster till you see coolant come out the first bleeder, then close that bleeder. Then remove the upper bleeder on the line running across the upper part of the firewall. Again, once fluid comes out, close it off. Let the car idle and top up the radiator as full as you can get it. Put the cap on, shut off the engine and make sure the reservoir has fluid between the MIN and MAX lines. Leave the heater knob on HOT for the next couple of drives. Use your A/C if it gets to hot for you. Check each morning when the engine is cold and top up the reservoir till it no longer needs it. This should only happen for about one or two mornings.
Q: How many gallons of distilled water will I need? I am not using the house water its extremely hard water
R: It'll take about a 1.5 gallons to do one flush and I suggest doing 2, especially if you are going from Type I to Type II coolant. If you are replacing existing Type II coolant, you don't have to be that thorough since not many cars with Type II coolant really need a coolant change yet. And Type II Honda coolant comes pre-mixed, but if you are going to an aftermarket coolant, then you'll need more distilled water to dilute it out 50:50. The system will take no more than 2 gallons for the final fill. This is assuming you are draining both sides of the block. The radiator plug will not do a full drain of the block. Without using a drain location on the right side of the engine, you'll be leaving about 2 liters behind.
Q: Well I am installing a koyo radiator and samco hoses so wouldn't it be better to drain the stock radiator and remove it and the OEM hoses. Install the new stuff then flush it? Rather then flushing with the OEM system still in the car? Also where exactly is the block drain bolt? Will it be faster if I open it up and drain it when I have the OEM radiator out?
R: What year is your car? If it's any year except '00, I don't think there's any need to do a complete flush. The coolant in there is supposed to be good for 10 years. If all you're doing is changing rads, then just open the drain on the rad till nothing comes out. Then put the new rad in and fill it back up with Type II and bleed the air out like I talked about. In your case, keep the heater knob closed so you don't lose too much fluid from those lines. Only open the heater knob to HOT during the bleed process.
Sorry, I missed that part about you just changing rads. However, if you do have a year 2000 car, then you should do a complete flush. The right side block drain is the big plug where the block heater goes. It's just above the motor mount. Don't bother with it. You'll never get in there with a big enough wrench to get that thing off. Just pull off the smaller curved hose at the oil filter at the lowest point. That will drain the right side. But don't do this if you don't have an '00.
Question: I am getting ready to install my koyo radiator and samco hoses. I was reading your coolant flush write up and I had some question. So when the car is complete cold I drain the fluid then I put the drain plug back in. The I fill it up with distilled water then I run the car. OK here is the question if the car is cold when I drain it then fill it with distilled water don't I have to let it fully warm up with distilled water in it to allow the thermostat open? Also I am really confused on the process of bleeding the air out?
Reply: No need to run it very long. You don't want it to get too hot. Less than a minute will do. Just make sure the heater knob on the dash is all the way to HOT. Even with the thermostat closed, when you pour in the fluid, it will run backwards to fill the other side of the stat. It won't fill it all but enough to do the job. When you start the engine, the water pump will still flush fluid through the heater core and many of the other water channels even with the stat closed.
On your final fill with the proper coolant, fill it to almost the top of the radiator neck. Leave a little room for fluctuations in level. Remember, have the heater knob to HOT. When you start the engine, be ready to open the bleeder valve on near the intake manifold. Pour in more coolant as needed and slightly rev the engine to get the water pump moving faster till you see coolant come out the first bleeder, then close that bleeder. Then remove the upper bleeder on the line running across the upper part of the firewall. Again, once fluid comes out, close it off. Let the car idle and top up the radiator as full as you can get it. Put the cap on, shut off the engine and make sure the reservoir has fluid between the MIN and MAX lines. Leave the heater knob on HOT for the next couple of drives. Use your A/C if it gets to hot for you. Check each morning when the engine is cold and top up the reservoir till it no longer needs it. This should only happen for about one or two mornings.
Q: How many gallons of distilled water will I need? I am not using the house water its extremely hard water
R: It'll take about a 1.5 gallons to do one flush and I suggest doing 2, especially if you are going from Type I to Type II coolant. If you are replacing existing Type II coolant, you don't have to be that thorough since not many cars with Type II coolant really need a coolant change yet. And Type II Honda coolant comes pre-mixed, but if you are going to an aftermarket coolant, then you'll need more distilled water to dilute it out 50:50. The system will take no more than 2 gallons for the final fill. This is assuming you are draining both sides of the block. The radiator plug will not do a full drain of the block. Without using a drain location on the right side of the engine, you'll be leaving about 2 liters behind.
Q: Well I am installing a koyo radiator and samco hoses so wouldn't it be better to drain the stock radiator and remove it and the OEM hoses. Install the new stuff then flush it? Rather then flushing with the OEM system still in the car? Also where exactly is the block drain bolt? Will it be faster if I open it up and drain it when I have the OEM radiator out?
R: What year is your car? If it's any year except '00, I don't think there's any need to do a complete flush. The coolant in there is supposed to be good for 10 years. If all you're doing is changing rads, then just open the drain on the rad till nothing comes out. Then put the new rad in and fill it back up with Type II and bleed the air out like I talked about. In your case, keep the heater knob closed so you don't lose too much fluid from those lines. Only open the heater knob to HOT during the bleed process.
Sorry, I missed that part about you just changing rads. However, if you do have a year 2000 car, then you should do a complete flush. The right side block drain is the big plug where the block heater goes. It's just above the motor mount. Don't bother with it. You'll never get in there with a big enough wrench to get that thing off. Just pull off the smaller curved hose at the oil filter at the lowest point. That will drain the right side. But don't do this if you don't have an '00.