Heater issue

[Lovetodrive2000]

OK... this is for my RSX-S.....

The heat coming out from my vents (when turned on high heat, fan at any speed) is only lukewarm.

This is after the car is fully warmed up.

Suggestions? Thermostat?

Coolant level is fine....

Thanks,

[kgf3076]

Air in the heater lines...bleed, fill, repeat.

[whitemike711]

What he said.

[Lovetodrive2000]

OK, thanks .... sounds like something fun to do this weekend! :)

[repiv]

Check the heater hose valve, too. Go under the hood and find where the two line go into the firewall. Typically, this will be on the passenger side (right side). You will see an inlet and an outlet hose going together (about a few inches apart). On the inlet hose, you should see a contraption. This is the valve. It should have a thin cable running to it. Have someone move the heater control on the dash from full cold to full hot. You should see this cable move in and out of its sheath. If not, then the cable is detached behind the knob or slider behind the dash. This could be a big job to get behind to fix it. If it does move but the valve does not move, then the cable is sliding past the attachment point there. You might be able to tighten it and secure it.
Since the cold weather is upon us, see which way the cable goes when the heater control is moved full hot. This is the direction that the valve lever needs to go and you can manually move it there under the hood. At least now, you will have the valve fully open and you'll the max engine coolant running into the heater core.
Now, these cars are getting a bit older and it could also be that the heater core is getting blocked up by buildup from the cooling system never being flushed and serviced. If this is the case (after all the other advice has been looked into), then you may be looking at some heavy duty heater core de-scaling or getting a new heater core.

[Lovetodrive2000]

OK.... bled the system (radiator cap off, heater control on hot, ran the car for 15-20 minutes).... no change.

The heater hose valve appears to be working, ok....

Adjusted (as stated in the RSX manual) the air mix control (basically the cable running from under the dash (the heater) to the valve under the hood...

Nothing seems to have raised the temperature of the air coming out of the vents! :(

Any other suggestions?

[repiv]

OK.... bled the system (radiator cap off, heater control on hot, ran the car for 15-20 minutes).... no change.
Not sure if that's how you bleed an RSX but that procedure wouldn't work on the S2000 or most other cars if you have an air lock in the system. There has to be a bleeder screw in the system somewhere at a high point.
Assuming that your heater hose valve is actually going full open, the next thing I would suggest is that your heater core is blocked from corrosion. This can be true, especially if the heater core is particularly small. The only way to tell if it has restricted flow is to disconnect the heater hoses near the firewall and hook up other hoses so you can blow into one hose and see and feel the rate of flow coming out the other hose. An clear, unrestricted core will be easy to blow the coolant out. If there is a restriction, you are looking at a new core. You can do a temporary fix by flushing the core with a descaling agent but this can be very hazardous and may only give relief for a year or so.
How about the heater fan? Does it push air well? Maybe there's a blockage in the air ducting.
The only other thing I can think of is your water pump is not pumping at a very good rate, but this would result in the engine running hotter than usual.

[batguano]

Thermostat?

[repiv]

I was going to say something about the thermostat but he mentioned that he was able to get the engine "fully warmed up" and still get no heat out of the HVAC. If the stat was stuck shut, the engine would over heat and he should get heat out of the HVAC. If the stat was stuck wide open, the engine would take forever to get to operating temp, but when it does (and he said it does), there is still no heat to the inside.
A question to OP ..................... Does the engine warm up normally as per the temp gauge? After it gets up to temp, go feel the upper rad hose. It should be very hot and you should only be able to hold onto it momentarily. If this is the case, it is not likely the stat. If it feels only warm, then it could be the stat.

[griffon]

Cabin air filter?

[Lovetodrive2000]

I was going to say something about the thermostat but he mentioned that he was able to get the engine "fully warmed up" and still get no heat out of the HVAC. If the stat was stuck shut, the engine would over heat and he should get heat out of the HVAC. If the stat was stuck wide open, the engine would take forever to get to operating temp, but when it does (and he said it does), there is still no heat to the inside.
A question to OP ..................... Does the engine warm up normally as per the temp gauge? After it gets up to temp, go feel the upper rad hose. It should be very hot and you should only be able to hold onto it momentarily. If this is the case, it is not likely the stat. If it feels only warm, then it could be the stat.

I do get a fair amount of heat out of the vents... but most cars I have had, and I'm pretty sure the RSX was this way also.... if you held your hand in front of the vents after the car had warmed up... would make your hand uncomfortably hot, almost feel like it was being singed.....

I'll go try the upper hose tomorrow....

[repiv]

I do get a fair amount of heat out of the vents... but most cars I have had, and I'm pretty sure the RSX was this way also.... if you held your hand in front of the vents after the car had warmed up... would make your hand uncomfortably hot, almost feel like it was being singed.....

I'll go try the upper hose tomorrow....

If this was not a sudden thing, I would still suggest that the core is getting clogged with scale build-up. Next time you get a chance, open the rad cap before you start the car for the first time that day and shine a light down onto the top of the water channels. If you see a lot of scale formation on the inside of each tube, then you can be fairly sure the core will be even worse. A slow diminishment of interior heat would point to this.

[griffon]

Where are you checking your coolant level, at the overflow tank or are you removing the radiator cap? Is the radiator full right up to the cap when the engine is cold?

[Lovetodrive2000]

Where are you checking your coolant level, at the overflow tank or are you removing the radiator cap? Is the radiator full right up to the cap when the engine is cold?

Checking it at the radiator cap.... and I'm pretty sure the AF is up to the top of the radiator neck. I'll check it tomorrow to make sure.

[griffon]

If the coolant is not up to the top it may just look full. Low coolant could cause the heater malfunction you are describing.

If the overflow tank has coolant in it and the radiator cap is working properly the radiator should be full right to the cap.

[whitemike711]

Just buy those finger and feet warmers and you will be fine. I almost never use my heat for more than 2-3 min anyway. Just turn the nob to heat and drive the heat comes through the vents and you will be warm in minutes.

[Lovetodrive2000]

If the coolant is not up to the top it may just look full. Low coolant could cause the heater malfunction you are describing.

If the overflow tank has coolant in it and the radiator cap is working properly the radiator should be full right to the cap.

Coolant level is up to the top of the radiator neck....

Added some extra coolant to overflow tank... almost impossible to see the overflow level! :(

Will check the upper radiator hose temp when we get back later.....

[Lovetodrive2000]

Top radiator hose is hot after driving....

RSX manual doesn't show any bleeder valves....

To change the AF... drain, close valve, pour in AF, run car and continue to add....

[griffon]

Are the heater hoses hot when the heat control is set to hot and the engine is warmed up?

[repiv]

The heater hose valve appears to be working, ok....
I just want to go back to this statement in light of everything else that has been discussed. How did you determine that this is the case? Can you actually see under the hood that when the heater knob goes from full cold to full hot, that the little lever at the valve goes almost a full 90 degrees? That's about the only way you can tell for sure that the valve is opening completely. If the cable is slipping past where it goes into the lever, the valve is not fully opening. If the valve is not opening fully, then the heater hose going in will be just as hot as the upper rad hose ad the hose coming out of the core will be much cooler. Same goes if the core has restricted flow due to scale build-up since the end result will be the same.

[Lovetodrive2000]

I just want to go back to this statement in light of everything else that has been discussed. How did you determine that this is the case? Can you actually see under the hood that when the heater knob goes from full cold to full hot, that the little lever at the valve goes almost a full 90 degrees? That's about the only way you can tell for sure that the valve is opening completely. If the cable is slipping past where it goes into the lever, the valve is not fully opening. If the valve is not opening fully, then the heater hose going in will be just as hot as the upper rad hose ad the hose coming out of the core will be much cooler. Same goes if the core has restricted flow due to scale build-up since the end result will be the same.

Yes, you can see the valve move smoothly when someone else turns the heat control hot to cold to hot to cold..... on my car, the key had to be turned to the II position to get it to operate (evidently the operation of the control is electronically controlled).

Both ends of the cable (under the hood and under the dash) have a "loop" that goes over a post, so that they cannot "slip". To adjust the cable, you do have to open a "clamp" holding the outside of the cable. In watching the operation of the cable, it does not appear to be "slipping" at all.

Once I saw it moving, I then adjusted the cable per my Acura manual..... but no change took place in the temp of the air coming out of the vents.

If I get a chance this week, I will try and see if the valve moves 90 degrees or so, and also feel the temp of the upper radiator hose and heater hoses.

Someone on the RSX site also said something about a bleeder valve on the stat housing.... I don't remember seeing this, and the guy was not sure there was actually one there! I'll be looking for that also.

[Looter]

:think: ....Superrior Acura :bgbounce: ...Located just down the street from your house !!!!! :rofl:

[Lovetodrive2000]

:think: ....Superrior Acura :bgbounce: ...Located just down the street from your house !!!!! :rofl:

I'd prefer not spending my $$$... I'm hoarding it for other worthwhile causes! :)

If I don't figure it out soon, it will go there! :(

[Looter]

;) Just couldn't help myself Mike !!!!! :thumbsup: I'd prefer not spending my $$$... I'm hoarding it for other worthwhile causes! :)

If I don't figure it out soon, it will go there! :(

[Lovetodrive2000]

;) Just couldn't help myself Mike !!!!! :thumbsup:

You're always sooo mean to me! :poke:

Think I may try replacing the thermostat next.... before I take it to a dealer.

[repiv]

Think I may try replacing the thermostat next.... before I take it to a dealer.

There's an easy check for this. If it is the thermostat, it will be because it's stuck open. If it's stuck open, you will see the coolant flowing like crazy after a cold start with the rad cap off. With the engine stone cold, fire it up and immediately go and remove the rad cap and take a look at the coolant. If it flowing well, it's your stat stuck open.

[Lovetodrive2000]

There's an easy check for this. If it is the thermostat, it will be because it's stuck open. If it's stuck open, you will see the coolant flowing like crazy after a cold start with the rad cap off. With the engine stone cold, fire it up and immediately go and remove the rad cap and take a look at the coolant. If it flowing well, it's your stat stuck open.

OK.... I'll set out a flashlight to check it in the morning, or worst case... at lunch! :)

[Lovetodrive2000]

Dang... if I need it!!

Autozone $58
Advance $42
AutohausAZ $37
Autopartswarehouse $36
All the above include the housing.....

OEMAcuraparts.com $36 for just the stat

Argghh... which one to buy?

[Looter]

http://acura.superiorcars.com/service_center.htm

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

[Lovetodrive2000]

Just ordered a stat... going to try that, even tho when I did what repiv suggested, the coolant was not flowing quickly...

Did get a good look into the radiator this morning, didn't appear to have an scale deposits where I could see.....

[camoy]

Not sure how much help this is now, but what you describe symptoms wise is exactly what happend on my DD and the thermostat was the culprit. Weird would have thought even if it was stuck open I would have eventually gotten heat if I drove it long enough but it was not the case. Good luck

[Lovetodrive2000]

If the coolant is not up to the top it may just look full. Low coolant could cause the heater malfunction you are describing.

If the overflow tank has coolant in it and the radiator cap is working properly the radiator should be full right to the cap.

What I meant was that in the dark, with a flashlight, I can see thru the AF (which is to the top of the radiator neck) and see that there is no scale on the radiator core. :thumbsup:

Plenty of fluid! :)

[Lovetodrive2000]

Hmmm..... the fricking thermostat is in an impossible location! :(

Found that out after removing a few body trim pieces, draining the radiator.....

So, its all back together..... going to call Acura tomorrow to see how much $$$$ they want! :(

Before I take it in tho.... going to mess with the cable to the valve.... it moves maybe 60 degrees or so..... going to undo it and start over with it.... :keepingfingerscrossed:

Appreciate everyones help!

[batguano]

Good luck Mike.

Keep us posted.

[repiv]

it moves maybe 60 degrees or so..... going to undo it and start over with it....
60 degrees is not enough. It should go 90 degrees. It's likely a ball valve, so 60 degrees may only be less than 1/2 open. This may be your problem. Rather than messing with it too much. See which way it goes to the open position and then manually move it as far as it will go, then go for a good drive and test for heat inside. If you have your heat back, you may be doing the thermostat for nothing.

[Lovetodrive2000]

60 degrees is not enough. It should go 90 degrees. It's likely a ball valve, so 60 degrees may only be less than 1/2 open. This may be your problem. Rather than messing with it too much. See which way it goes to the open position and then manually move it as far as it will go, then go for a good drive and test for heat inside. If you have your heat back, you may be doing the thermostat for nothing.

Yippers..... just need to find the time to unclamp it, unhook it.... move it... and try it.. :)

Probably take me all of 5 minutes! :)

But, it takes two to get it back together!.....

I'll let you know what comes of it!!

[griffon]

You could always just buy a lot of those pocket handwarmers and a really good snowmobile suit.:devil:

[Lovetodrive2000]

OK... now I am completely confused and baffled! :banghead:

Here is what I am experiencing......

1. The only time I get any heat is when the temp knob is turned to full heat (all the way clockwise).
2. If the temp knob is turned back one notch (1/8") I get no heat, just cool air.
3. If I disconnect the cable from the temp knob (electrial thingmajig under the dash) to the valve under the hood, and turn the knob, I get heat at full heat on the knob, but no heat if I turn it down on click even tho the valve under the hood is not moving!!!!!!!!!! (no, I was not drinking prior to doing this)
4. The cable from the heater control (under the dash) to the valve under the hood is adjusted correctly
5. Antifreeze is to the neck of the radiator, and overflow container is at correct level.

Suggestions besides therapy for me would be appreciated!!!!

I'd be more than willing to provide my phone number, or call you if you need more info!

Thanks,

[Lovetodrive2000]

You could always just buy a lot of those pocket handwarmers and a really good snowmobile suit.:devil:

I am reallllllyyyyyy thinking of doing this!!! :)

[repiv]

3. If I disconnect the cable from the temp knob (electrial thingmajig under the dash) to the valve under the hood, and turn the knob, I get heat at full heat on the knob, but no heat if I turn it down on click even tho the valve under the hood is not moving!!!!!!!!!! (no, I was not drinking prior to doing this)
I contend that the heat knob is an electronic and possibly also a mechanical connection to two things. The first may likely be to a flapper valve in the airbox inside the dash and the second is to the actual heater hose valve. The electronic part may be malfunctioning and closing off the air passage from the heater core with anything but full "hot" and bringing in cold outside air by bypassing the core.
Since you can get full heat at some point, this would mean that the heater hose valve can be fully opened. If you can determine that the water valve can be moved to full hot using the knob, then live with the situation. If the valve is only able to go to full open manually, then I suggest you disconnect the cable at the heater hose valve in the engine bay and tape the valve in the full open (hot) position, then regulate the interior heat either full hot or not. At least, for the winter months, this will ensure you have heat when you want it. If it gets too hot, you can always crank the knob that 1/8" or crack open a window.
Just as the cable at the heater valve can slip, it may very well be that the solenoid actuated cable to the flapper valve may have slipped. I'll bet that if you were to go into the dash, you will find that the flapper is almost always closed to the heater core and if you were to fix that and allow the flapper to fully open to the core, you'll be belting out heat like crazy. If it's not worth the expense or trouble to get this fixed, then just manually move the water valve in the spring to the closed position so you don't have hot coolant going to the core at all. I knew someone with an old Chevette where she had to reach up under the dash and manually move a flapper at the beginning of winter and move it again it the spring. The water valve worked fine. In her case, the flappers made it such that the heater core was by-passed. This may be your situation as well.

[griffon]

Have you checked for a TSB on this problem?

[Lovetodrive2000]

Goofy dang car.....

This morning had heat... could adjust heat..... everything was working fine.....

Maybe I'm just putting off bad vibes and the car is trying to tell me that! :)

[repiv]

:think:

[griffon]

Maybe yout need to hold your mouth just right when you turn the heat on.:D

[Lovetodrive2000]

Maybe yout need to hold your mouth just right when you turn the heat on.:D

I must... on the way home... it was working "some what"!

Argghhh... Think I'll sell these cars and buy a horse and buggy! :bgbounce:

[repiv]

The solenoid may be going and it's just being temperamental.

[griffon]

The solenoid may be going and it's just being temperamental.

Do women have solenoids?:confused:

[repiv]

Do women have solenoids?:confused:
Of course they do. Ever seen one during menopause?:taped:

[Lovetodrive2000]

Of course they do. Ever seen one during menopause?:taped:

Oh please.... lets not go there!!! :taped:

It sure don't work very well!!!! :)

[Lovetodrive2000]

Guess the next thing for me to do is....

Install Windows 7!!!

That should take my mind off the heater problem! :)

[Lovetodrive2000]

RSX is heading for Superior Acura Friday morning! :(

Wish I had the time, knowledge, experience to figure this out myself! :(

[Looter]

:facepalm: ....Superrior Acura ...Located just down the street from your house !!!!! ( 1st Page ) RSX is heading for Superior Acura Friday morning! :(

Wish I had the time, knowledge, experience to figure this out myself! :(

[griffon]

Did you ever try "exercising" the heat control valve? Maybe it got sticky over the summer.

[Lovetodrive2000]

Did you ever try "exercising" the heat control valve? Maybe it got sticky over the summer.

If you mean to disconnect the cable to the valve under the hood..... been there done that. Moved the valve lever back and forth a number of times.

[Lovetodrive2000]

Well... its wasn't the thermostat! :(

Just ordered the air mix control motor......

Lets see if that will take care of it! :)

[repiv]

Well... its wasn't the thermostat! :(

Just ordered the air mix control motor......

Lets see if that will take care of it! :)

My replies in post #40 and #46 was my first inkling of this. I think this will be the final answer.

[Lovetodrive2000]

I sure hope so!

Should have listened to you and not listened to myself and the Acura mechanic! :)

[Scooterboy]

My gosh, why don't you donate that thing to some charity and buy a good Mazda!! :poke:

[Lovetodrive2000]

My gosh, why don't you donate that thing to some charity and buy a good Mazda!! :poke:

We actually did just by a Mazda Tribute a month or so ago!

Are you happy now? :)

[Lovetodrive2000]

Well... its wasn't the thermostat! :(

Just ordered the air mix control motor......

Lets see if that will take care of it! :)

Frickin OEMAcuraParts.com just cancelled my order with no explanation! :eek:

Order placed on the 17th, and cancelled on the 25th... what great service....

Just placed the order with a new dealer..... $160 parts order.... air mix thingmajig, and 2 hatch cylinders..

Ugggg... time to start waiting again! :(

[Lovetodrive2000]

Replaced the air mix control motor over the weekend, and so far it seems to be working..

But then, it had started working correctly about a week ago! :)

Dang cars!

[repiv]

I'm betting this is the real fix. Keep fingers crossed. Where before, it was left up to chance and most likely lateral G forces to help the flapper open and close, now you've got proper control of it.

[Lovetodrive2000]

Thanks for your help (and others) helping me find the right culprit!