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raymo19
04-07-2009, 12:29 AM
I've had my Comptech SC/AC for a couple of years now including a couple of pulley changes and have done the standard stuff as far as checking/adjusting belt tension and checking for oil in the intake tube etc. But I can't seem to find a thread or article anywhere regarding maintenance for the aftercooler.

I don't know that I have any problems but then again I don't even know what to look for. I can lay my hand on the AC after spirited driving and leave it there with no discomfort. If I ever had a copy of the aftercooler install manual I can't find it and can't find one online.

So what are you SC guys doing and why? And does anyone have a link to the Comptech AC manual? I found one but the link no longer works.:(

No worries. The car is running great!:rockon:

repiv
04-07-2009, 02:18 AM
Comptech removed the PDF file online for the supercharger installation manual since they went under new management. They may have another but I can't find the link on their site.

As far as the A/C is concerned, there really isn't anything in the way of maintenance. You should be using a standard 50:50 mix of engine coolant and if you use the long life version, it should last way longer than it would in the engine since it doesn't get nearly as hot as engine coolant normally would.
Once in a while, I key the ignition without starting the engine just to go and listen for the pump. If it's starting to get "tired", you will hear it. These pumps have been in use in outdoor fish ponds for years and they last years and years. Our A/C is a closed system, so not much in the way of crap should get in. Using antifreeze mix will ensure the pump is always lubricated. Every month or so, I'll open up the fill cap and see if there is any loss of fluid and top up if necessary. This will tell you if you have a leak you need to address. There should be a small amount of loss over time just from seapage past hose clamps. Those clamps aren't as tight as the ones on the engine hose clamps. By looking at the fluid in the fill hole, you can tell if it's remaining clean. If the fins in the heat exchangers are getting deposits, you will see it in the coolant. It won't be as clean and clear as it should be. This can happen if you are not using an antifreeze mix, which contains anti-corrosion chemicals in it.
What you are doing by feeling the temp of the A/C surface at the end of a drive is also a good indication that the system is working adequately. If all is well, I wouldn't even consider changing it for 10 years or more. If you are using regular antifreeze, then maybe 5 years. The A/C system on my car is probably the most maintenance free thing on it.

raymo19
04-07-2009, 04:17 PM
Thanks Dave - that would tend to explain why there's not a lot of maintenance information around.:D

As I recall the AC was originally filled with distilled water and water wetter. I'll remove the fill plug in a day or two and have a look. If the level is low can I add 50/50 antifreeze or should I use the mix that's in it?

repiv
04-07-2009, 04:46 PM
Does your water wetter have pump lubricants and anti-corrosion elements in it? I have "heard" that WW does have such elements in it but I can't guaranty this. Also, I have no idea if WW is compatable with an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze. Best to check into this before preceding.

If the car never sees freezing temps and the pump is still humming along nicely and the fluid still looks clean, I would stick with what you've got in there already for top up.

raymo19
04-07-2009, 06:54 PM
According to this:

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

it does all you mentioned and more and is compatible with most anything. I may start using it as a cocktail mixer.:LOL:

repiv
04-07-2009, 08:24 PM
According to this:

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

it does all you mentioned and more and is compatible with most anything. I may start using it as a cocktail mixer.:LOL:

Very good. You're covered except that I think it will still freeze if it gets cold.

raymo19
04-07-2009, 11:08 PM
I suspect you're correct. The car is garaged and rarely sees temps below 50F. I'm thinking if I need to add anything I'll top it up with 50/50 premixed antifreeze. I've always got that on hand.

raymo19
04-10-2009, 12:40 AM
Opened the fill plug today with a couple of surprises. First, the 8 mm Allen plug required a short extension and a pretty hard pop to break it loose. Once that was done I found the reservoir full - of what appears to be plain old green ethylene glycol and water.

I then turned the key over to start and the pump is definitely circulating - the fluid almost came out of the neck. I guess I'm good to go for now.

Would it be beneficial to put some anti seize on the plug threads or just continue to pop the plug periodically?

repiv
04-10-2009, 12:59 AM
Would it be beneficial to put some anti seize on the plug threads or just continue to pop the plug periodically?
Is water wetter green? If not, how did it transform? :think:
I've never seen what the fill cap looks like on the Comptech. Try just snugging it on and check it again in a couple of weeks. If it gets tight again, it may be the typical galvanic adhesion we see with many of the metal fasteners on the car. Try a little anti-seize but NOT on the treads entirely, but more on the underside of the cap head where it touches the A/C tank.

raymo19
04-10-2009, 04:38 PM
It didn't. I had forgotten about the blower kit having to be removed when the defective clutch was replaced. The AC was apparently refilled with anifreeze.:duh:

I'll have another go at the fill cap in a couple of weeks and see if anti-seize is needed.

Thanks Dave.:thumbup:

Is water wetter green? If not, how did it transform? :think:
I've never seen what the fill cap looks like on the Comptech. Try just snugging it on and check it again in a couple of weeks. If it gets tight again, it may be the typical galvanic adhesion we see with many of the metal fasteners on the car. Try a little anti-seize but NOT on the treads entirely, but more on the underside of the cap head where it touches the A/C tank.