Valve clearance adjustment ?

[mlc]

Hello All, I have a MY00 with 61K on the clock. I am going to do a valve clearance check and spark plug replacement. I know the plugs can go longer but it is more of an age thing.

I have looked at the DIY's and have the shop manual. It looks pretty straight forward.

My questions are:

Do I need to remove the heat sheild? It is close from looking at it but will it be in the way of working on it.

Can I just use a box wrench and a flathead screwdriver to do the adjustment? I figured open the locking nut and leave the wrench on there, make the adjustment and hold it with the flathead and close the locking nut with the wrench and then recheck the clearance. Or do you feel like the "tool" is absolutely necessary.

Do they sell feeler gauges that are bent already or will I need to do that?

Any other suggestions on things that have made it easier for you would be greatly appreciated.

Kevin

[bimdub]

Do I need to remove the heat shield? It is close from looking at it but will it be in the way of working on it.
Nope, the heat shield can stay in place with no problem.


Can I just use a box wrench and a flat head screwdriver to do the adjustment? I figured open the locking nut and leave the wrench on there, make the adjustment and hold it with the flat head and close the locking nut with the wrench and then recheck the clearance. Or do you feel like the "tool" is absolutely necessary.

I use a good fitting flat head and a regular box wrench. and recheck after I am done.

Do they sell feeler gauges that are bent already or will I need to do that?

Yes they do, you can bend them as well.


Any other suggestions on things that have made it easier for you would be greatly appreciated.

If you remove the spark plugs and use a socket on the engine pulley its easier to turn the engine to the next position. Remember to only check the clearance between the valve and the rocker, never EVER check at the lobe of the camshaft as you will almost certainly scratch it or the roller....which is a bad thing! take you time, use good lighting, the intake side is more difficult. If you must take a break, then use on old pillow case to cover the valvetrain.

[mlc]

Thanks. Can't wait to show my son a little about how an engine works.

Kevin

[mlc]

One other question. I might as well check the retainers while I am in there. How hard is it to see them and does anyone have any pics of exactly what and where to look. I have a decent idea but would like conformation on what I am looking for.

Thanks.

Kevin

[repiv]

Here ya go:

Good retainer on the left. Sunken retainer on the right (bad).

http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/44222/2699825870025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2699825870025981935VlslJR)

PS. Unless you have evidence to make you believe a valve adjustment is necessary, I would suggest to leave it alone. I've seen more than a few adjustments gone wrong and some of these were by professional techs. It's not rocket science but it does have it's nit-picky points. If you can get a mechanic's stethoscope and listen at each of the 16 valve positions on the valve cover, this will give you a better idea of the necessity of this work. Each position should sound more or less like every other. If you hear one that is exceptionally louder or quieter than the others, that's your first hint that you need to go further. Next, you should check each valve clearance BEFORE you loosen the locknut. You may find that they are not that far off and even if they are at the limit of clearance, it might be wiser to leave it alone than to try to move it to within the range. Once you loosen that nut and even so much as sneeze on the adjuster pin, there is no going back. I know of S2000s that have gone nearly 100K miles and have never had the valves touched. Remember that a slightly noisier valve (more clearance) is better than one that is almost silent (smaller clearance). If you hear a ticking at each position, things aren't so bad.

[mlc]

Thanks Dave. I don't know why I was thinking that the interval for doing this was sooner. I have no issues with a "tick" it runs great. I, beleive it or not looked at the owners manual (shocking these days) and the schedule is "adjust if noisy" and then at 84 months or 105K miles.

I would never just start adjusting anything without first checking to see if it was in tolerence. Ideally I would like to not have to adjust anything and just button it back up. I am with you if you are not having an issue don't create one.

I think I will take your sound advice as usual and leave we enough alone. I might just pull the cover to take a look at the retainers . With such an early AP1 I am always somewhat concerned about the retainers. So many story's of "the car seemed fine and then boom". I have had it for 1 1/2 years and have put 6K miles on it. It now has 61K on the clock. I would think that if there was a over-rev in its history that it would have shown its head by now.

Thanks Dave.

Kevin

[desmo4]

Can I just use a box wrench and a flathead screwdriver to do the adjustment? I figured open the locking nut and leave the wrench on there, make the adjustment and hold it with the flathead and close the locking nut with the wrench and then recheck the clearance. Or do you feel like the "tool" is absolutely necessary.

A box wrench will be hard to use especially on the the intake side. A crows foot wrench makes it easy.

Jonathan

[mlc]

Can I just use a box wrench and a flathead screwdriver to do the adjustment? I figured open the locking nut and leave the wrench on there, make the adjustment and hold it with the flathead and close the locking nut with the wrench and then recheck the clearance. Or do you feel like the "tool" is absolutely necessary.

A box wrench will be hard to use especially on the the intake side. A crows foot wrench makes it easy.

Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan.