headlight replacement

[dfws2k]

I am purchasing a new set of headlights, however I am only procuring the "housing", as I have my original headlights still intact in my car.

My car is an ap1, and the new set also belongs to an ap1.

I have removed my headlights and taken them apart before (to install rick's diffusers), however I have never removed the ballasts/bulbs/anything like that.

As the new set is only the housing, and I plan on putting my diffusers/ballasts/bulbs/everything else in this new set, I wanted to see if there is anything that I need to be mindful of in doing the "swap".

The reason for the swap is that one of my headlight housings is damaged, and I found a pretty good deal on the set, and they have been recently refinished.

So is there anything I need to watch out for to make sure I don't kill myself this go-around? lol...

[repiv]

Having never done it, I can only say that since you've already taken them apart to replace the diffusers, you've most likely done the hardest part. My only suggestion would be to disassemble one at a time so you have the other one for reference. Remove stuff in a logical order and put it all back in reverse onto the new housing. Take pictures along the way if that will help you out.

[dfws2k]

One side a time sounds like a good plan... I would've probably ended up with four headlights all apart laying on my kitchen table, lol...

[repiv]

It's a trick they recommend when doing brakes, too. That way, if you get lost or confused, you have a complete one to look at.

[dfws2k]

The ballasts shouldn't be holding a charge or anything should they? I'm not exactly sure how they are engineered...

I can see them acting as a capacitor and frying my heart...

[repiv]

The ballasts shouldn't be holding a charge or anything should they? I'm not exactly sure how they are engineered...

I can see them acting as a capacitor and frying my heart...

I just thought that since you've already done headlight work, that you knew all about this. It's always a good idea to disconnect the battery for about 1/2 hour (to be on the safe side) before you handle the energizing components of HID headlights. Have you radio code before turning the juice off.

[dfws2k]

Oh, last time I did it, I took them out of the car, and then had them laying around for an hour or two before I baked them, I didn't have to disconnect any of the ballasts/bulbs anything like that.

Luckily, I don't have stock radio anymore, so no more worrying about code. :)

Sounds like I should be safe, hopefully I can find gloves because headlights @ 200 degrees for ~ 10-15 minutes = hot.

Thanks for all your responses!

[w1ngman]

I stopped counting conversions at ~ 400 pair...:rockon: so while I don't post here often for you to know me, know that I'm experienced:

- Do all the following on a workbench/countertop with a soft terry towel spread out before you.
- Rest headlamp assembly upright on ballast & remove both bulbs' access panels. Rubber boot pulls straight away for high beam access, hard plastic plate twists w/ directional arrows embossed in plastic. Note: A specially-headed screw holds the hard plastic plate in place. Rather than invest in a set of special drivers for that...I simply use a pair of pliers directly on that little screw head (works like a charm)
- Twist & disconnect HID harness at HID bulb. At the same time, you may disconnect the smaller ground lead attached near the HID -- you can do this either before or after removing the HID bulb...it really doesn't matter. Note: This lead has a 90-degree flat connector clip protected by a jelly/bluish-purple shroud.
- Pinch wire retaining clips to free each bulb. Do NOT bend these clips unnecessarily. All force should be nothing more than resistance necessary to bypass clip retainers. Note: When handling bulbs, do NOT touch glass with fingers...especially HID bulbs as oil residue from fingers will lessen life of bulb -- grasping by the base of each bulb will suffice for all handling needs. I rest each bulb back in its specific access panel...now laying on your workbench/countertop near you ;).
- Rest headlamp upside down with ballast in the air. Note: I like to roll up a dry microfiber towel under the front side such that it 'props' the headlamp into position with the ballast upside down for access to the 4 - 10mm bolts retaining the ballast.
- Gently pull ballast away from headlamp assy. You may need to coax the thicker HID connector cabling through as its bulb harness likes to pinch in tight places inside the headlamp occasionally. Note: Observe the ballast gasket once you've removed the ballast. It is your decision, but if it does not freely come out with the ballast, I like to gently remove it with a tiny flat-headed screwdriver. I do NOT suggest baking a headlamp with the ballast gasket seated in the headlamp assy.

That should have left you with an empty 'husk' of a headlamp assembly electronics-wise. Only advice outside of reversing the above steps when you're ready to reassembly....is that sometimes feeding the two ballast wires back into a headlamp can be like trying to push a wet noodle uphill. I like to wrap the smaller flat lead around the thicker HID cable and feed both of them back in at once.

Hope this info helps! :cool:

- Dave

PS. As for your recently purchased 'reconditioned' headlamps.... Consider that while they sparkle now, the polishing the lenses likely went through has removed any UV protective coating. You should check with a local Auto Parts supply store for an appropriate UV protective spray/application...and periodically apply to your pretty new headlamps to keep them from fogging over time.

[dfws2k]

Dang I just saw this, performed the "switch" over this weekend...

Rather than using a torx for the little screw holding the cover for the HID, I did end up using pliers, lol...

As far as the UV protective coating, would the 3M clear bra stuff work instead? I was going to see if the body shop could apply that...

Also, one quick question on HID bulbs. There is some metal thing that runs parallel to the bulb. on one of the bulbs, the metal part looked sheared. What does that do and what is going to happen ? I guess I should probably get a pair of replacements...

[repiv]

There is some metal thing that runs parallel to the bulb. on one of the bulbs, the metal part looked sheared. What does that do and what is going to happen ?
I'm going to guess that acts as an insulator and a support for the wire going to the end terminal. If the wire inside is also sheared, I would think the bulb won't work.

As far as the UV protective coating, would the 3M clear bra stuff work instead?
I installed a thick 3M film on my headlights the first week I had the brand new car. That was 9 years ago. My headlight lenses look like new - no fading, no hazing and the added bonus being no rock damage. Hazing is a common occurence with quite a few S2000 headlights that have never been filmed. However, a bit of "elbow grease" and rubbing compound will get the lens back to pristine condition that should last another couple of years. This is another option to doing the film.
I used a fairly thick film thinking the more protection against a rock hit, the better. It was about an 80 mil. Looking back, I don't think it needs to be this thick. I wouldn't recommend going more than 40 mil and I'm guessing the 20 mil will do. The typical paint 3M protection film is between 3 and 6 mil. The thinner it is, the easier it is to install.
In the early days of headlight 3M film, it was found that a few headlight lenses developed hairline fractures under the film. Some say it was from the type of cleaner used to prep the headlight before the film went on. This has never been proven. When asked what type of install was performed, it was disclosed that a "dry" mount was done. This involved stretching the flim onto the lens. A thick film would continually be trying to "unstretch" and this may have caused too much stress on the lens surface. I did a "wet" mount where the film was not stretched in any way. It has never created a problem in 9 years.

[dfws2k]

Ok, when I drop my new bumper off, I will ask whether or not they do the clear bra, what thickness and whether dry or wet.

My old headlights were VERY hazed, I think I will try to get them refinished to see if they can help another member out.