White smoke and slight burning smell at times

[TxRedHot_S2K]

I noticed recently at times my car is putting out a small amount of white smoke from the exhaust and there seems to be a slight burning smell. Other than a little occasional rough idling, the car seems to be running well. I just had all the fluids replaced a couple of weeks ago and they seem to be at the right levels. It isn't happening all the time, but I was curious if anyone else has experienced this or has thoughts on what might be causing it.

Ideas? :shrug:

[darkside]

Hopefully you didnt bend any valves

[bimdub]

white smoke? is it just steam because its cold outside or is it really white smoke? also does the exhaust smell like burnt sugar? (cotton candy)

[TxRedHot_S2K]

It's not due to the cold because it's still fairly warm here (upper 70s to 80s). It doesn't smell like burnt sugar, more rubberish.

[desmo4]

White smoke is generally oil. I would do a compression check and depending on the results a leak down test.

Jonathan

[SheDrivesIt]

White smoke that dissipates quickly is typically water vapor. Burning oil is typically bluish in hue and tends to hang in the air.

[TxRedHot_S2K]

I just ran the car for about 45 minutes. Here's what I observed...

When I first started the car it was putting out a little white smoke and there was condensation in the tailpipes.

After letting it run for about 5 minutes, the condensation dried up and the smoke stopped.

I then drove it on the freeway and on city streets stopping periodically to check for smoke. No smoke and the temperature was normal, slightly below the center where it always runs.

Only concern I still have is:
1) When I stopped to check for smoke, the exhaust smells like antifreeze and is damp (would fog up my glasses)
2) If I turned on the heat, the smell coming through the vent smelled like antifreeze.

Still not sure what it is. :confused:

[My_yella_s2k]

Please wait until Dave signs on and reads... :wait:

[repiv]

I just had all the fluids replaced a couple of weeks ago and they seem to be at the right levels.
What fluids? Continue to monitor the levels of all the fluids that were changed, at least those that are easy to check and those that typically disappear (engine oil, coolant, brake and clutch fluid). Whenever fluids are changed, there is always a possibility of a bit of spillage that wasn't wiped up. You may simply be burning off some of that spillage over time.
Are you actually seeing it coming out of the exhaust tips? Or is it just a general observation of smoke coming from under the car? Next time you notice it, lift the hood and take a good look and smell.

Condensation in the exhaust for the first few minutes of the engine running is pretty normal. As you've seen, it burns off. However, the smoke is an indication that coolant is getting into the combustion process or getting into the exhaust manifold if it's coming out the exhaust tips. Continue to monitor the coolant level in the overflow tank. Make sure that the hose between the rad cap and the tank is in good shape and not leaking. Check the level in the morning when everything is cool. The level will rise as the engine heats up and then as it cools overnight, it will suck the coolant back in. Top up to the "MIN" line as necessary. However, after a coolant change, the level will drop as the system burps itself of all the air. It is typical to have to add coolant. Run with the heat knob to HOT at least for a couple of driving cycles. If it's too hot, then just use your A/C as well. This will burp the air out of the heater core. It should stabilize after a few days of topping up. If not, then something is wrong.

[TxRedHot_S2K]

I checked the coolant when it was cold before I started the car and it was so full that when I removed the cap it spilled over the top. I thought that was a little unusual as it normally is a little lower. I'll check the hoses and overflow tank and ensure all looks good there. I was wondering if there would be any benefit to replacing the radiator cap, just in case there's a problem with it, but I thought the coolant would probably be low if that was the case and not overflowing.

I did observe the smoke coming from the exhaust tips and not just generally around the car. But as stated, that was just in the first five minutes of the car running. I had my oil, diff, and tranny fluids changed. That was 2050 miles ago (9/7) so it was a little longer than what I was thinking. That being the case, I don't think it's probably fluid burn off.

I'll double check the cooling system and see if anything looks out of order. Thanks for the advice.

[repiv]

I checked the coolant when it was cold before I started the car and it was so full that when I removed the cap it spilled over the top. I thought that was a little unusual as it normally is a little lower.

Please confirm ............................ You removed the rad cap? This should only be removed when doing a coolant change or if you suspect you need to fill it up. Normally, this cap should never be touched. The fluid under the rad cap should be right to the very top, just under the cap itself. The fact that it overflowed tells me that the coolant change was not done correctly. It was likely not bled using both bleed outlets, if at all and with the heat knob on HOT. If there is a big air pocket located within the cooling system, even after cool down, this air can still exert pressure to push the coolant out the cap when you open it. Here's what I suggest you do ....................
Ensure that the overflow tube from the rad cap neck to the top of the overflow tank is tight (no cracks or breaks or looseness). Remove the rad cap once more and make sure it's filled right to the top. Clean the neck area of debris and the underside of the rad cap. Put the cap back on making sure you have screwed it down past the first detent and locked into the second detent. All rad caps have a two position seat. Then make sure the overflow tank is filled to between the MIN and MAX line. Do this when cold. Drive the car as usual (but with the heater knob to HOT). Next morning, check the tank only and top off as necessary. Repeat for 2 to 3 days and the level in the tank should begin to read the same in the mornings.
As an aside, what coolant was used and was this done at the dealer? Was there a reason you had it changed? The original coolant in an '04 is supposed to be good for up to 10 years and they should have used Honda Type II, not regular coolant.

[TxRedHot_S2K]

The coolant wasn't changed, or at least hasn't been for as long as I've had the car. I purchased it at 14,500 miles, so it probably wasn't done before then either. I opened the rad cap to check the coolant level. I didn't realize it should only be checked in the tank. The tank is a bit low ,so do I need to get the Honda Type II coolant to bring it to the correct level between min and max, and not use regular coolant?

[Rocketman]

If you have checked your coolant in the past by removing the radiator cap, it is possible that it may have been reinstalled incorrectly and didn't seal well. This might explain the excessive coolant in the overflow tank, as well as the smell. However, if you have coolant infiltrating the cylinders and entering the combustion chambers, you may have a bigger problem. Have you checked for leaks under the car?

[bimdub]

personally, it sounds like normal moisture from warm up.......even though it is still "warm" where you are......there can still be "steam" from the exhaust during warmup....as for the smell......could be just spilled coolant.......

do as Repiv said and report back....

[TxRedHot_S2K]

Yep, I already had checked and no leaks under the car. I check that pretty regularly. I think I may just be overly paranoid, or at least I hope I am, but better safe than sorry, right? :) I'll follow Dave's suggestions and let ya know.

[XLevel]

personally, it sounds like normal moisture from warm up.......even though it is still "warm" where you are......there can still be "steam" from the exhaust during warmup....as for the smell......could be just spilled coolant.......

do as Repiv said and report back....

I concur.

[repiv]

The coolant wasn't changed, or at least hasn't been for as long as I've had the car. I purchased it at 14,500 miles, so it probably wasn't done before then either. I opened the rad cap to check the coolant level. I didn't realize it should only be checked in the tank. The tank is a bit low ,so do I need to get the Honda Type II coolant to bring it to the correct level between min and max, and not use regular coolant?
I see. Yes, only check the level in the tank whenever possible. And yes, use only Type II. It is a "long life" coolant. Although mixing it with "regular" coolant won't necessarily damage anything, by adding regular coolant to long life coolant, you've just turned it all into "regular" coolant. In some rare cases, if you mix the wrong kind of coolant with long life stuff, you will have a bad chemical reaction that will be harmful to the cooling system. Best to play it safe and use Honda Type II. Keep in mind that Type II from Honda is pre-mixed. DO NOT dilute it with water as you would any other "store bought" coolant. Use it straight from the jug.
Now that you've lost some coolant by taking the rad cap off, you need to bring it back to the proper fill. Follow my previous instructions and after that, you can begin to keep a better eye on it. You may take a driving cycle to burn off the coolant that has spilled over when you opened the cap, so don't confuse this smoke with the other smoke you've seen.
If you are seeing white smoke out the exhaust after you have warmed up the car, then something is wrong. You may have a bad head gasket or some coolant is getting into the intake or exhaust via the Idle Air Control mechanism or the Secondary Air Injection system. Let's hope it's not one of these. If you are smelling coolant inside the car from the HVAC system, then you may have a leak in the heater core. This and the smoke out the exhaust shoule NOT be related.

[TxRedHot_S2K]

Update...

I topped off the coolant with the Honda Type II, drove it for the last couple of days with the heater on full blast and checked the coolant each morning. The coolant level has not changed, no change in the performance of the car (still running good) so all appears to be good. I still think I smell a bit of a coolant smell from the tailpipes, so I'm going to sniff someone else's exhaust and see if it smells the same. :D

Thanks for all the advice.

[s2kobsessed]

Update...

so I'm going to sniff someone else's exhaust and see if it smells the same. :D

Thanks for all the advice.

:rofl:

[s2k_at_17]

Update...

I topped off the coolant with the Honda Type II, drove it for the last couple of days with the heater on full blast and checked the coolant each morning. The coolant level has not changed, no change in the performance of the car (still running good) so all appears to be good. I still think I smell a bit of a coolant smell from the tailpipes, so I'm going to sniff someone else's exhaust and see if it smells the same. :D

Thanks for all the advice.

:shocked: :shocked: :lol:

[bimdub]

not my exhaust!

[TxRedHot_S2K]

Wow, some people are so greedy! :p

[RatedR]

I actually have very similar symptoms as you've described. My smoke actually got so bad due to 30 mins of idiling before autocrossing that my very first run was a whole lot of smoke. Then, my 2nd and 3rd runs were clean, no smoke whatsoever. After looking thoroughly for any signs of possible wear, the only think I dont have is the vaccuum tank for the intake system. I installed a Fujita CAI and broke it so I ran the vaccuum lines direct w/o that tank. Can't think of anything else that might affect this, but coolant and oil levels are fine. I dont even have to top off the oil level for the motor. I used to have to do that in between oil changes w/ my previous motor, but this new motor is crisp.

[repiv]

I actually have very similar symptoms as you've described. My smoke actually got so bad due to 30 mins of idiling before autocrossing that my very first run was a whole lot of smoke. Then, my 2nd and 3rd runs were clean, no smoke whatsoever. After looking thoroughly for any signs of possible wear, the only think I dont have is the vaccuum tank for the intake system. I installed a Fujita CAI and broke it so I ran the vaccuum lines direct w/o that tank. Can't think of anything else that might affect this, but coolant and oil levels are fine. I dont even have to top off the oil level for the motor. I used to have to do that in between oil changes w/ my previous motor, but this new motor is crisp.

The symptoms may be similar, but I believe your situation is unrelated to what's being described so far in this thread.
Depending upon the ambient temps when you did that auto-X, idling for 30 minutes straight is not a good thing. Idiling for that long does not dissipate heat very well. There will be hot spots throughout the cooling system because of the low velocity coolant flow while idling. This can then lead to the oil getting much thinner than desired and hence will tend to promote easier oil burnoff.
When you say, "vaccuum tank for the intake system", do you mean the secondary air injection system for the emission control? That vacuum tank is using manifold vacuum and besides that, it really has nothing to do with the "intake". It actually has to do with the exhaust in that it pumps air into the exhaust manifold during cold engine warm up.

[RatedR]

Thanks for the clarification. My symptoms also happen during warm up, its just that it was very bad during the autocrossing. I get that smoke everyday, dont think its really that bad, just thought its the nature of a worn high comp motor....