repiv
09-30-2008, 08:37 PM
From time to time, I'd like to focus on one specific area of "wrenching" an S2000 that might help the back yard mechanic (and DIY person) tackle a job better and more efficiently, with less problems encountered.
Today's tip involves getting those seemingly stuck bolts to start. The initial thought is that the previous idiot put these things on too bloody tight. Efforts made to get them off only leads to rounded off heads and eventually having to drill them out or using a "Screw Out" or "Bolt Out".
Whenever you have a bolt of one type of material mating up with a surface of a different material, some form of Galvanic corrosion takes place. The larger the bolt, the greater is the surface area that has "stuck" together and the tougher it is to get these things to turn. One prime example is that little screw that holds the brake rotor in place at each wheel hub. If you try to just turn it with a screw driver by hand, you will likely fail. An Impact Driver is almost a requirement. Another example is the front engine crank pulley. When people try to remove it, they say that someone "nailed" that thing on. Well, no, they didn't. It only take a few months for the mating surfaces to "bond" to each other. Although that nut was put on at the factory with 181 lb/ft, experience has indicated that it can take in excess of 500 lb/ft to break it loose. An impact gun is required but there is no space to use on down there. A very long set of breaker bars are needed.
When dealing with more ordinary bolts, one can use the "snap" technique. Use the proper sized tool (socket or wrench or hex key). Make sure the ratchet is set in the correct direction of turn. Set the tool squarely into or onto the bolt being turned. Take out the slack and hold the tool perpendicular to the bolt. Then give it a sharp, strong, SNAP. That's usually all it takes to get it broken free. Putting them back on shouldn't be like something you do at the gym. Use the correct torque or just firmly snug them down. If you have a larger bolt like those on the crankcase, tranny case, rear diff case bolts, a hollow pipe on the ratchet handle (used for leverage) is in order.
The following is a video I made of how to get the spark plug cover and coil pack fasteners started:
http://good-times.webshots.com/video/3053564620025981935nuqKSO?vhost=good-times
Today's tip involves getting those seemingly stuck bolts to start. The initial thought is that the previous idiot put these things on too bloody tight. Efforts made to get them off only leads to rounded off heads and eventually having to drill them out or using a "Screw Out" or "Bolt Out".
Whenever you have a bolt of one type of material mating up with a surface of a different material, some form of Galvanic corrosion takes place. The larger the bolt, the greater is the surface area that has "stuck" together and the tougher it is to get these things to turn. One prime example is that little screw that holds the brake rotor in place at each wheel hub. If you try to just turn it with a screw driver by hand, you will likely fail. An Impact Driver is almost a requirement. Another example is the front engine crank pulley. When people try to remove it, they say that someone "nailed" that thing on. Well, no, they didn't. It only take a few months for the mating surfaces to "bond" to each other. Although that nut was put on at the factory with 181 lb/ft, experience has indicated that it can take in excess of 500 lb/ft to break it loose. An impact gun is required but there is no space to use on down there. A very long set of breaker bars are needed.
When dealing with more ordinary bolts, one can use the "snap" technique. Use the proper sized tool (socket or wrench or hex key). Make sure the ratchet is set in the correct direction of turn. Set the tool squarely into or onto the bolt being turned. Take out the slack and hold the tool perpendicular to the bolt. Then give it a sharp, strong, SNAP. That's usually all it takes to get it broken free. Putting them back on shouldn't be like something you do at the gym. Use the correct torque or just firmly snug them down. If you have a larger bolt like those on the crankcase, tranny case, rear diff case bolts, a hollow pipe on the ratchet handle (used for leverage) is in order.
The following is a video I made of how to get the spark plug cover and coil pack fasteners started:
http://good-times.webshots.com/video/3053564620025981935nuqKSO?vhost=good-times