Quick oil change question

[pezjunki]

Got a quick question, and I think I know the answer..
I just changed my oil today. When I went to tighten the oil plug, it would get sort of tight then "pop" it would be loose again. Kind of like a metric bolt in a standard nut..... I should preface this by saying the last time I had the Valvolene guys change it, I noticed about a quart on my garage floor the next day. Took it back to them they said they cross threaded it and it was stripped. So, they re-tapped it. This is why I am, and forever will, change my own oil.
So my question is that pop normal? (since I have never changed the oil, I don't know for sure)

[repiv]

No, that pop is not normal. Sounds to me like the threads are still compromised. You have the option of re-tapping it yet again and going to yet a bigger drain bolt or you can try to find a thicker crush washer so that you don't reach that point in the thread. There is a washer on the bolt, right? The other alternative is to pick up a new or used oilpan.
PS. The torque as stated by Honda for the drain bolt, IMO, is too much. They state something like 30 lb/ft. For such a short thread, I believe it's too much. I have used 25 lb/ft and I still feel this is too much. I usually snug it down, then give the rachet one last slight tap (equivalent to about 1/16 of a turn) and call it quites. Never had a problem with that.

[pezjunki]

Yeah, I put a brand new crush washer on. I think that part of the problem too. The last time I changed the oil i reused the old crush washer. I think it was formed enough to create a seal. It is barely hand tight... Now. it's only leaking about one drip per 5 minutes.

[My_yella_s2k]

get a new oil pan Mike.
if its already been tapped... i would no re-tap it again for another bigger size, IMO

[pezjunki]

I have been looking for one, since that happened. But draggin my feet. Guess this will put me over the edge.
Used one should be Ok, right?

[My_yella_s2k]

I dont know to be honest,
think of it like this :
why would you be getting rid of a oil pan?
ehh, to me, id go brandy new

[repiv]

I have been looking for one, since that happened. But draggin my feet. Guess this will put me over the edge.
Used one should be Ok, right?

There are parts shops that sell off written off cars. I found this place on ebay that sells a few S2000 bits that are still in good shape. I bought a used mirror from this guy:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=370071774118&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=024

Shoot him a message and see if he has an oilpan.

A new one, however, will cost over 200 bucks.
Another alternative is to get one of those quick release oil drains and permanently seal it onto the pan. Fumuto and Fram make them.

[pezjunki]

There are parts shops that sell off written off cars. I found this place on ebay that sells a few S2000 bits that are still in good shape. I bought a used mirror from this guy:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=370071774118&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=024

Shoot him a message and see if he has an oilpan.

A new one, however, will cost over 200 bucks.
Another alternative is to get one of those quick release oil drains and permanently seal it onto the pan. Fumuto and Fram make them.

Thanks for the link.

I do have one of those quick release drains (from XLevel). That is actually what clued me in, in the first place. Because it didn't fit, I really think they tapped it standard. But, you think I could just seal it in there?

[repiv]

Thanks for the link.

I do have one of those quick release drains (from XLevel). That is actually what clued me in, in the first place. Because it didn't fit, I really think they tapped it standard. But, you think I could just seal it in there?
Hmmm, I'm not so sure you can seal it properly if there is too much slop in the threads. I'm thinking of some sort of metal weld compound. You may have to have the thing "normal" welded in place. You'd have to ask a welding expert to see if the two materials are easily welded together.

[desmo4]

I use the same method as you Dave and never had any problem in 8 years of ownership. Is there enough depth to use a helicoil ? Or the other alternative is have it welded (heliarc) and re-tapped the original size.

Jonathan

[bimdub]

well, if it were me....I would remove the pan......clean it really good... and clean it again....take it out to the shop......tig it closed.....from both inside and out.....and the redrill and retap it out.....

[parkerdt]

I would get a brand new one, have it dealer-installed with a written report of the thread damage and send the bill to Valvoline, personally.

Dave

[pezjunki]

Thanks for the advice guys. Well, it stopped leaking over night, so that gives me some time. I'll probably just get a new one and put it on this weekend. The S is my dd, so i need the quickest fix.

[IMPETUS]

Oil pan part number is 11200-PCX-000. It comes with a drain plug but the catalog is not showing a gasket.... odd.
Dealer retail is $262. If your local dealer does not have one in stock they should be able to get one the next day. Hope that helps

[pezjunki]

Oil pan part number is 11200-PCX-000. It comes with a drain plug but the catalog is not showing a gasket.... odd.
Dealer retail is $262. If your local dealer does not have one in stock they should be able to get one the next day. Hope that helps

Thanks. I found a earlier post, it uses that liquid gasket type stuff.

[Randy W]

I have a spare oil pan. Drop me a PM and I'll sell it to you cheap!

[repiv]

Oil pan part number is 11200-PCX-000. It comes with a drain plug but the catalog is not showing a gasket.... odd.
There is no dedicated "gasket" on our oilpans. Honda directs you to apply a type of RTV sealant or "gasket maker". Honda calls it "Liquid Gasket". This is the case for both the oilpan and the rear diff casing halves.