Question for my friend Dave...

[S2Kr]

Hello Dave,
Have a question for you;Did you ever hear of a broken oil Filter housing,on a S2000,F-20 AP-1???

Mine ,apparently cracked,this afternoon,developed an oil leak,and my car caught on fire...

Ever heard of something like thayt???

[repiv]

Not on an S2000 in particular, but I have heard of this happening before. This was a case where the oil filter was dented from mishandling prior to being installed. The crack formed on the edge of the dent. Generally speaking, this is a fairly rare occurence. Fires caused by leaking oil more likely happens when the oil filter is not put on tight enough and it unscrews loose. Do you know if the filter was put on using a band type filter wrench? Those can crimp the filter if too much force is used. Then a crack can develop in the crimp.
Good Lord, Emil, I hope the damage was not severe. I'm sure you are heartbroken for this to happen to your beautiful car.

[raymo19]

Sorry to hear this news Emil. I hope the car will be OK but I'm glad to hear you came out of it relatively undamaged.:(

[S2Kr]

Hi Dave,
got my car back yesterday;no damage to the engine whatsoever,runs like a charm.

Very minor damage to the hood insulation,by the fire,and the block-heater wire,is toasted.


It was not the oil filter housing,that broke,but the brass fitting,installed,for my oil press.gauge.

I know,that I asked your advice,at the time,on how to install,the oil press gauge,and you told me not to use that brass fitiing,for fear of breaking.(now I understand...)
If I remember right,you told me to use,an extended S.S.braided hose,and I forgot the details;trie to search,the FAQ,on the other board,but could not find anything...

I do not want this to happen again,so would you be kind enough,to refresh my memory,about this install,please.???

-Emil.

[repiv]

Emil, I'm so happy that it was not worse. Hood insulation and block heater wire can easily be replaced.
Please remind me which method you used for the oil sender. Did you go with the Greddy oil filter "sandwich" or the connection off the stock sender as in my pictures below?
As for the fitting, it was not so much the brass fitting, but the weight of the assembly ("T" and senders) hanging off it. This is just too much. Using a couple of long flex hoses to take the weight of the sending units (stock and OEM) away from the fitting will help to prevent this. A brass fitting that is tapered is actually a good idea to go directly into the engine. A softer metal like brass can absorb more vibration than a harder aluminum piece. From that, you install a "T" fitting. Using teflon tape also helps to absorb some of the violent vibration that occurs in that area. Put the senders at the ends of these flex hoses and zip tie them to something solid on the fender wall area.
Here is a picture of my oil pressure sender set up before my advice to you. I have since put on a second flex hose to mount the OEM sender onto. Also, in the picture, you see an aluminum fitting (blue) that goes into the engine. This is NOT the way to go. It was a result of this fitting cracking on me, that I have advised everyone to use a brass fitting into the engine and flex hose on all senders.
http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/39985/2082849370025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2082849370025981935BMqZQp)

In this picture, you see the same set up I did for another friend, using the brass initial fitting into the engine. I still retained the OEM sender on the "T". He has had no problems with this for many years. Ignore the stuff on the right. It's his water temp hardware.
http://inlinethumb34.webshots.com/43809/2251657210025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2251657210025981935lGgbls)
It's the combination of aluminim initial fitting and the weight of both senders on the "T" that increases the chance of vibration induced cracking. Continue to use the brass fitting but with some teflon tape on the threads. Keep the teflon tape away from the very end that screws into the engine in case small bits of tape come off and enter the oil passage.

[S2Kr]

Thank's Dave,
I'll do it right,yhis time;it scared the s**t out of me.

Most apparent damage,hood liner:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii320/EmilSt-Hilaire/DSCN0004-5.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii320/EmilSt-Hilaire/DSCN0003-4.jpg

The rest is O.K.,and the engine is running,like a charm:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii320/EmilSt-Hilaire/DSCN0002-3.jpg

Now,I have to find a way to repair,or change that hood liner...
-Emil.

[repiv]

The hood liner is an easy fix. See those big black round things? Those are the retainer pins that hold the liner in. Get a flat tool and pry each one out. They even sell a trim tab removal tool at places like Princess Auto just for that purpose. The tool will reduce the chances of breaking those pins. Disconnect the washer hoses and the liner should just come right off. Then on with the new one. The 2 washer hose clips are removed the same way. Get a price from your local dealer and compare to this:
http://www.slhondaparts.com/browse.asp?Model=S2000&Year=2002&TrimLevel=2DR+S2000+&TransLevel=6MTKA&Section=H&Category=B++51++%7CHOOD&Doors=2&Emissions=KA&PartCatalogId=14S2A0&IRefNo=012&PartNoSelected=74141-S2A-010
It's not too expensive. Remove the pins first to see if you need to replace any that got broken during the process. Then you can order the liner and extra pins at the same time.
From the looks of it, you were very lucky. The damage doesn't appear to bad.

[Jasonoff]

Dave... is this where you sleep when you're bad?

http://inlinethumb34.webshots.com/43809/2251657210025981935S600x600Q85.jpg

:p

[S2Kr]

:thumbup: Thank you Dave.
I was very lucky;I could have lost my engine:and I could have lost my car,due to the fire...

So,even if it looks a little SISSY,from now on,I will always carry this,in my trunk:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii320/EmilSt-Hilaire/DSCN0006-1.jpg

and,I hope I will never have to use it.

-Emil.

[repiv]

Yeah. Funny, I woke up and all this stuff was under me. I think I pulled it all out of my a.. in my sleep. The wife makes me sleep out in the garage. The dog house is too cold.:waa:

[Jasonoff]

So,even if it looks a little SISSY,from now on,I will always carry this,in my trunk:I'd just let it burn then do the dance with insurance...

Yeah. Funny, I woke up and all this stuff was under me. I think I pulled it all out of my a.. in my sleep. The wife makes me sleep out in the garage. The dog house is too cold.:waa:Its not heated? :poke:

[repiv]

Warning to all. Be very careful if you ever find yourself having to fight an engine fire. The first thing that happens when you lift the hood up is all that heat and fire and smoke follows the angle of the hood and comes out right at your hand and face. I've opened a few hoods at engine fires. I'm not so worried since I've got all my gear and breathing stuff on, but those who don't will risk getting badly burned or inhale some deadly fumes. The stuff that burns in an engine bay can be very toxic and some stuff are carcinogens.
If you must do it (pop the hood release before you jump out of the car if you can remember), get down as low as you can, wear something on the hand that lifts the hood, be at arms length, have the extinguisher ready. Begin shooting the extinguisher as soon as there is the smallest opening in the hood and continue to shoot as you open the hood. Use a fanning motion with the extinguisher. If flames are already coming out of the front of the car, you might want to rethink this whole thing. It's probably too big for that extinguisher.
Oh, take a big breath and hold it for as long as you possibly can. When you must inhale again, use the extinguisher to prop up the hood while you take a couple steps back to breath. Go back only if it is safe. The situation may have gotten worse and uncontrollable. Wait for "Fire" and let the insurance deal with it. Not worth getting burned over a car.

[Jasonoff]

I think taking a video would be your best bet :)

From a safe distance obviously...

[desmo4]

Hi Dave,
got my car back yesterday;no damage to the engine whatsoever,runs like a charm.

Very minor damage to the hood insulation,by the fire,and the block-heater wire,is toasted.


It was not the oil filter housing,that broke,but the brass fitting,installed,for my oil press.gauge.

I know,that I asked your advice,at the time,on how to install,the oil press gauge,and you told me not to use that brass fitiing,for fear of breaking.(now I understand...)
If I remember right,you told me to use,an extended S.S.braided hose,and I forgot the details;trie to search,the FAQ,on the other board,but could not find anything...

I do not want this to happen again,so would you be kind enough,to refresh my memory,about this install,please.???

-Emil.


You can get all of the parts need from Pegasus Auto Racing. They have brass, SS, AL, what ever you want to use and their website shows what is is stock at the time of purchase.

Jonathan

[S2Kr]

So Dave,what do I need.???
1/8" S.S braided line,NPT threads??? +/- 12 " long ???
Is that all ???

-Emil.

[repiv]

Sorry, Emil, I cannot give you actual thread sizes because it's been so long I can't remember what they are. You need to take the OEM pressure sender and your gauge sender with you to the shop and have them matched to the fittings.
Looking at the following picture again .............................. (assembly on the left is my oil pressure stuff) ..............
http://inlinethumb34.webshots.com/43809/2251657210025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2251657210025981935lGgbls)
If you are still using the stock sender, then your first fitting is the same thread as the stock sender thread because this is what goes into the engine. You see it as the yellow fitting on the end.
Then comes the blue "T". This has the stock sender screwed into it. After the "T", you see the flex hose. I believe the ones I used were more like 18" long. On the end of this hose, goes your aftermarket sending unit. Find a convenient location behind the heat shield and zip tie it to something solid. I used my A/C line.
The best thing to do is to NOT over tighten any fitting, especially the one that goes into the engine. Use teflon tape on all the threads of all fittings and senders, staying well away from the orifice on the ends. Snug them all down firmly but not overly tight.

[S2Kr]

Gros Merci,Dave.:thumbup:

-Emil.:)