View Full Version : lug nut torque
rys2kmk
04-17-2008, 06:17 AM
I found a torque value in the manual for installing the spare, but didn't see a reference for the normal wheels. I would assume it is the same torque, but thought it prudent to verify first :rolleye2:
Spring is almost here and getting psyched up to put the summer wheels/tires on for the first time:rockon: The winter tires are great (Dunlop M3) but its time for the real thing! Thanks!
s2kmugen
04-17-2008, 06:25 AM
80 lbs
SondraS2k
04-17-2008, 06:27 AM
Hmmmm... I've always torqued them to 83 lbs. Probably a negligible difference.
kwando
04-17-2008, 06:51 AM
anywhere between 75 or 85 ft lbs is acceptable. i use 82
repiv
04-17-2008, 07:25 AM
Spare or road wheels ........................ same @80.
Take the following with a grain of salt. I use 90 lb/ft myself and have done so since the car was 1 week old. To me, 80 lb/ft just doesn't seem enough compared to what I'm used to with all my other cars. My feeling was somewhat substantiated when I started reading posts from a few people who's lugnuts loosened during hard driving. Although 10's of thousands of S2000s roll around with 80, it doesn't appear as though 90 has done any harm, at least, not for my car.
s2k_at_17
04-17-2008, 07:26 AM
what would yall say about the torque on after market wheels....same?
repiv
04-17-2008, 07:36 AM
what would yall say about the torque on after market wheels....same?
Yes, same. Torque is a function of the lug and the lugnut and not so much of the rim you use. One also has to consider that the quality of the aftermarket lugnut is comparable to the OEM ones. So long as the rim is within a reasonable spec for width, offset (spacer use will also have an effect). Specs that are way out not only produce undesirable affects on fitment and handling, but can cause undue stress on the lugs (aka studs).
Newzfoto
04-17-2008, 09:58 AM
Any idea of the steering rack clamp bolt torque? The CR uses a steering rack stiffener which is two separate parts mounted using the orig four steering rack clamp bolts. Ive thought about adding the stiffener, it will retrofit on non-CR AP2's but havent called Honda to ask them about the torque yet.
Jasonoff
04-17-2008, 01:48 PM
I use 85 for the street and 90 for the track. Wheels haven't fallen off yet :p
kevos2k
04-17-2008, 02:49 PM
i use 90 always have on all my cars
yinlun
04-17-2008, 03:47 PM
I've been using 85..but it still makes me a little uncomfortable compared to my other cars.
desmo4
04-17-2008, 04:50 PM
The service manual says 85 ft lbs.
Jonathan
repiv
04-17-2008, 06:08 PM
The service manual says 85 ft lbs.
Jonathan
Do you have a newer, revised manual? My 00 - 01 manual says 80. Not a big deal since most respondents here don't use 80 anyway.
Jasonoff
04-17-2008, 07:51 PM
According to the Helms it's 79.6 lbf-ft
http://jasonoff.iroque.com/LugTorque.gif
repiv
04-17-2008, 07:54 PM
According to the Helms it's 79.6 lbf-ft
http://jasonoff.iroque.com/LugTorque.gif
Approximately! :laugh:
Jasonoff
04-17-2008, 08:09 PM
Can someone help me find the .6 lbf-ft on my torque wrench? :think:
:lol:
gomarlins3
04-17-2008, 08:31 PM
Do you have a newer, revised manual? My 00 - 01 manual says 80. Not a big deal since most respondents here don't use 80 anyway.
2002 manual also say's 80 lbs.
I have always used 80 and tried a little more at the track and autoX's, but just went back to 80 and haven't had a problem.
Geo02s2k
04-17-2008, 08:32 PM
I've always used 80. Never had a problem.
repiv
04-17-2008, 09:00 PM
Can someone help me find the .6 lbf-ft on my torque wrench? :think:
:lol:
I think if you set your wrench to 79, then once it clicks, fart real hard and you'll have it.
tomauto
04-17-2008, 09:18 PM
I think if you set your wrench to 79, then once it clicks, fart real hard and you'll have it.
So that is what the fine print of the torque wrench instructions say! :rofl:
Great tip indeed.
Jasonoff
04-17-2008, 09:19 PM
Is that what is in the fine print of the torque wrench instructions? :rofl:
Great tip indeed.No..it's actually in white font in the helms.
If you have a "paper" copy you'd never find it.
Double'SS'
04-17-2008, 09:47 PM
I think if you set your wrench to 79, then once it clicks, fart real hard and you'll have it.
:rofl::rofl: ... picturing it...
Double'SS'
04-17-2008, 09:51 PM
Can someone help me find the .6 lbf-ft on my torque wrench? :think:
:lol:
Go digital...I just ordered one of these for work, can't wait to 'borrow' it!
http://www.emaxaction.com/images/ct3_diagram.jpg
Jasonoff
04-17-2008, 10:01 PM
Go digital...I just ordered one of these for work, can't wait to 'borrow' it!You gotta be f'in kidding me. :loser:
Double'SS'
04-17-2008, 10:16 PM
You know you want one now...:poke:
rys2kmk
04-18-2008, 02:02 AM
Thanks everyone for the help! I had no idea lug torque was such a passionate topic :D
As a mechanical engineer, a word of caution on torquing over spec. The stud, nut, and threads are designed for a specific torque and expected loads (cornering loads). Exceeding this reduces the safety factor. The practical reality is that the safety factor is likely well above the higher torques. You can't really compare torque values for different cars and make comparisons as to one being a better general value or not.
When I tracked my 944 turbo I didn't torque to any higher values. The factory spec was 95 ft-lbs (again, the hardware designed for this) and used this spec street or track. I know some felt inclined to go higher to feel safer but in reality were reducing safety. As far as nuts loosening, there is a seating phenomena. For street I retorque atter about 100 miles. On the track I retorqued after the first session after mounting the track wheels or rotating. On rechecks I never saw loosened nuts after that. As always, YMMV, but just what I've experienced.
desmo4
04-18-2008, 02:41 AM
Do you have a newer, revised manual? My 00 - 01 manual says 80. Not a big deal since most respondents here don't use 80 anyway.
I bought the manual when I bought the car in Oct 99.
Jonathan
Jasonoff
04-18-2008, 04:10 AM
You know you want one now...:poke:Uhhhh... YA :D
As a mechanical engineer, a word of caution on torquing over spec. The stud, nut, and threads are designed for a specific torque and expected loads (cornering loads). Exceeding this reduces the safety factor. Don't forget they generally have a 150% margin for maxmium torque before sheer point in order to meet safety standards. It may actually be more than that. :think: Torquing from 80 to 90 is only an 11% increase. For street I retorque atter about 100 miles. On the track I retorqued after the first session after mounting the track wheels or rotating. On rechecks I never saw loosened nuts after that. As always, YMMV, but just what I've experienced.I REALLY hope you wait for the wheel to cool down before you retorque after a track session.
A lot of people who change their tires imediatly after a track day often suffer from broken lug syndrome. BLS <-- ya i just made that up :laugh:
rys2kmk
04-18-2008, 05:01 AM
I REALLY hope you wait for the wheel to cool down before you retorque after a track session.
Yes, I'd wait until just before the next session.
smac2K
04-18-2008, 05:52 AM
OK, so I learned something new today...Not only do you need to have this "torque" thing right (new to me :duh: ) But if you have after market rims, you have the correct lugnuts too. Luckily the vibration of the car finally tipped me off to look...and THANK YOU for this thread! This thread popped in my head when I was driving home, so I checked it when I got home...
Using aftermarket rims, with stock lugnuts...combine that with not checking the lugnuts after I put the wheels back on after a couple weeks :yikes:
The wheel didn't come off, but I did lose a lugnut and almost every lugnut on every wheel needed tightened significantly!!!
Thank you for this thread!
I need to get one of these handy-dandy torque wrenches and some "cone" lugnuts and I will feel safe again!!! :highfive:
vBulletin® v3.6.4, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.