timing chain tensioner replacement

[mcajr]

latley i have noticed the "card in the bike wheel" sound occasionally on startup, however yesrterday it did it for a bit after start up, i would say maybe a few minutes. so i tried to read up on it as much as possible. this morning i went to carmax to get a quote on replaceing it, and they came back with almost 700 dollars, :yikes:

they said it was a 6.9 hour job, but from what i've read it seems like a fairly simple procedure. the part alone is only $137. anyone want to shed some light on this situation?

[darkside]

It is very simple, there is a write up somewhere on the other site on how to do it.

[equinoxiq]

i also put this together a while back
http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=18013

i hope it helps. $700 is way too much. the part itself is around $150 and it only takes a few minutes to do

[repiv]

i also put this together a while back
http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=18013

i hope it helps. $700 is way too much. the part itself is around $150 and it only takes a few minutes to do

That write up is spot on. :thumbup: Carmax is in the "bend over and take it up the rear" business?

[alvanderp]

How early on have you guys seen this part start to fail? My 06 is intermittently making the "card in bike wheel" noise on startup as well. I say intermittently because it only happens every 3rd or 4th start, and only lasts for maybe 1 sec after startup. I have 31k on the clock, but my car gets ridden hard and put away wet very often. It gets auto-xed about 20 times a year and tracked 3-4 weekends a year. Replacing the tensioner wouldnt be something I would have a problem doing, but I dont want to buy one if its more likely its something else.

[equinoxiq]

Drew, mine actually started at around 25k, but i didn't replace it right away. The current one has been going strong but it hasn't been 25k yet. i've been listening for it to see if it'll happen again at around that mileage. But apparently some people go without theirs ever having a problem so i'm hoping this one will be able to last.

[repiv]

I say intermittently because it only happens every 3rd or 4th start, and only lasts for maybe 1 sec after startup.

1 second is not a whole lot of time to home in on the sound. Besides, if it's only intermitent and only for 1 second, I doubt it's anything to be concerned about. Typically, the TCT that need replacing are those that do not stop ticking after the engine has been running for some time. If it's really going to go, I think it will let you know in a clear way.

I suppose you could put a stethoscope to the TCT each and every time you start it (with help) to determine if that's where it's coming from.

[jbee808]

Repiv...I just want to say thanks for sharing your knowledge. All the tips have been so helpful to me.

I do have questions in regards to this repair. In the removal process, when compressing the tensioner with the 5 x 08mm bolt, how far does it go in before tightening the nut to lock? How can you tell if its actually compressing the tensioner? Can I just go to Napa or CarQuest to get this bolt?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to be sure that's all.

Thanks again.

John

[SondraS2k]

Dave, is it worth it to change the timing chain while I'm in there? I didn't realize this sound was a bad thing, and mine's been making that noise for a LONG time.

[stantaur]

FWIW, replacing the timing chain tensioner (TCT) is a 15 minute job if you don't have S/C or a factory airbox in the way. It gets a little more tricky if you have those components in the way of what you're trying to manipulate.

The timing chain itself (along with the plastic guides that it rides in) is an expensive proposition requiring removal of the harmonic balancer, timing chain cover, oil pan, etc. If you were to go to the trouble of having that replaced, I'd recommend doing the TC guides and having them check to see if you have 4-hole oil jet bolts (while the oil pan is off anyway -- easy to replace while the pan's off) or the old 2-holers (mine as an '02 had the 2-holers that I replaced when I went FI).

After reading at length on the other site, those who noticed their TCT noise seem to have heard it by 40K or so; some who haven't noticed it are in the 100K range so far...

[repiv]

I do have questions in regards to this repair. In the removal process, when compressing the tensioner with the 5 x 08mm bolt, how far does it go in before tightening the nut to lock? How can you tell if its actually compressing the tensioner? Can I just go to Napa or CarQuest to get this bolt?
You know when the thing is compressed enough when you can fully insert the holding pin. There's a little ridge that the end of the pin catches. This is the pin that stays in place till the assembly is installed and you pull it out the front access hole. Not sure where you can get a bolt like that. I usually have odd bolts laying around the workshop.

[repiv]

Dave, is it worth it to change the timing chain while I'm in there? I didn't realize this sound was a bad thing, and mine's been making that noise for a LONG time.
Timing chains are usually good for the life of the engine, unlike timing belts. If it is indeed the tensioner that's making the noise, replacing it alone should be enough.
As for the oiljet bolts, I believe Honda stopped using the older 2-hole bolts part way through 2001 model year. Your 2002 should already have the new 4-hole bolts.

[repiv]

As for the oiljet bolts, I believe Honda stopped using the older 2-hole bolts part way through 2001 model year. Your 2002 should already have the new 4-hole bolts.
I may stand corrected on this. Thanks to "TJ S 2K", who PM'd me with information to say that it was model year 2002 that Honda changed to the newer oiljet bolts.

SONDRA ......................... Your 2002 may or may not have the new bolts.
I did a bit of digging and came up with this: Check your engine serial number. It should be stamped on the top near the front. If it is below #1025386, then you have the old 2-hole bolts. That number and later (for year 2002) have the newer 4-hole bolts.