Clutch Stage Differences

[NFR_AP1]

Could someone please explain to me the difference between OEM, Stage 1, Stage 2 and Stage 3 Clutches.

The Cluch went out in my Si, so I took it to a local performance shop and told them to put a Stage 2 clutch in it. I feel a significant difference at least in the pedal and the way it engages. I actually I like the pedal feel more than my "S". but what made the significant difference between the Stage 2 that I put in the Si and the OEM that came out of it?

Yes, I am sure it was over kill. Especially to put on a stock motor and tranny, but hey, what do ya do, sounded good at the time. .


Thanks,

[s2ksuzuka]

My understadning is that staging relates to clampiing power of the presure plate. Many of us have made the upgrade to a better clutch system. I for one have the ACT HD Pressure plate, with a comptech flywheel (one of the few that can be turned) factory friction disk, and a factory thoughout bearing. The clutch pedal is a harder throw, but I got used to it a long itme ago. If you ever plan on going FI, make the change now. I'm very happy with my setup. and know quite a few others with the same or very similar setup. Many like the toda flywheel as opposed to the comptech. Like I said earlier the comptech can be turned when I replace the clutch in the future and that save about 450 off the price of parts.

Hope that helps, I think m ine is a stage 2 setup, but I don't remember, I'm sure someone else will chime in with that info

[Goku]

Its hard to say because every company does it a bit different. But basickly you can look at it as the grip and bite the clutch has

OEM
Soft easy feel. stock feel that varies from car to car.
Stage 1
10-20% more grip but usualy uses OEM pressure plate so feel doesnt change on pedel side
Stage2
20-40% more grip can have its own pressure plate or OEM one Usualy still has easy push with pedel but very noticable difference in engaugement. Much stronger feel
Stage3
40% + to what ever more grip. It depends on who you get it from
This usualy comes with aftermarket pressure plate and can have a 6puck or 4 puck disk. Engaugement is harsh and abroupt. But can handle a ton of power and abuse.

All of this is subject to speculation. As every clutch company is a bit different, and names there stuff what ever they want, so take this as a guide line.

Running a Stage 2 in your stock civic will just make it fun to drive when you want to show off, and might increase your 0-60mph but could also hurt it do to wheel spin. Hard to tell with out somebase lines. But whats nice is most aftermarket clutches are stronger than stock and are cheaper, thats why I have a Stage 3 6 puck racing clutch in the S2000. It ROCKS, but sucks in stop and go traffic...

[rioyellows2k]

You have to consider your clutch as more than the clutch and pressure plate if you're upgrading. I upgraded to a lightweight Street Flywheel (chromoly vs, Aluminum) since it was on;y $100 more than resurfacing my OEM flywheel.

I went with ACT's Stage 2 clutch and HD Pressure Plate. I think it was "HDSS" in their catalogue. Moderately increased clutch effort, but never had any issues handling my Si's 250 Turbo'd Horses.

Depends on your car, how you like to drive and how much power you intend to put down. If you're stock an upgraded clutch plate with an OEM Pressure plate might be the way to go. But a "performance" one might just be a slight bit more than OEM. It may be a better value to buy an aftermarket one.

[s2ksuzuka]

Personally, I have found the stock pressure plate to be the weak link in the system. This is from personally experience. At 15K I needed a new clutch. I don't abuse the car, and had to fight tooth and nail with Honda to look at the problem. I had already purchased the act hd pressure plate and comptech flywheel. I asked them to take the car apart and if it was my fault I would pay for the r&r. However, if it wasn't my fault, I wanted them to pay for the oem friction disk and thoughout bearing, and all of the labor
After two weeks of my car sitting there with me fighting with the regionals (I don't know why, I said if it was my fault, I would pay) they finally took it apart. I told it was not my fault, the friction disk had no marks on it, in fact it was the cleanest one they had taken apart to that point.

the long and short of it was the pressure plate was failing over 8k rpms.

since then I have put almost 20k on the car with know issues and have been boosted for the last 7 months with no issues.

Act HD pressure plate, lightweight flywheel (I chose the comptech since it can be turned) oem friction disk, and oem thowout bearing for a car that drives very well, slightly more effort to push the pedal in, but I got used to it very quick.

It's not overly harsh when shifting and clamps like a b%tch