Did I mess up my engine?

[qbmurderer13]

Hey guys I just finished doing the coolant bypass to the throttle body and intake manifold. I accidently re-routed the hose that goes into the throttle body into the hose to the left of the IAC which I realized was the wrong one, and that one point it started but idled wrong so I turned it off immediately. I switched the lines to re-route the one that comes out and under the intake manifold. Now it wont turn on and I heard a popping noise as I try to turn it on. It will crank several times then just stop. No CEL.

[bimdub]

Hey guys I just finished doing the coolant bypass to the throttle body and intake manifold. I accidently re-routed the hose that goes into the throttle body into the hose to the left of the IAC which I realized was the wrong one, and that one point it started but idled wrong so I turned it off immediately. I switched the lines to re-route the one that comes out and under the intake manifold. Now it wont turn on and I heard a popping noise as I try to turn it on. It will crank several times then just stop. No CEL.

not sure what line that is, but if you pumped enough coolant into a cylinder......:yikes:

[qbmurderer13]

not sure what line that is, but if you pumped enough coolant into a cylinder......:yikes:

I think its some sort of vaccuum hose but im not exactly sure where it leads to, it was only on for a couple of seconds.

[repiv]

There's a few possibilities in that area. You're going to have to be more descriptive or put up a picture showing what you hooked into what. The hoses nearest the IAC solenoid are coolant lines, but the one just in front of those is a vacuum line. In 4 seconds, I'll bet that line will carry over 100cc of coolant.

[qbmurderer13]

Yeah thats the one I hooked it up to, not the pipe going into the manifold but the hose that comes out of it. So my engines done then right?

[Bolander]

im sorry if this is a dumb question, but how would coolant ruin a motor? Why cant you just crank the motor but with with no ignition/spark and try to cycle the coolant through?

[repiv]

Yeah thats the one I hooked it up to, not the pipe going into the manifold but the hose that comes out of it. So my engines done then right?

I'm making a guess here, so please don't hold me to it. I think you have pumped coolant into your secondary air injection system. That hose you plugged the coolant line into (assuming I'm visualizing the same thing you are), runs to the air injection pump. I'm not entirely sure if that is the inlet to the air pump or the outlet. If you don't have a code now, if you were to continue to try and start the engine, you will have a code. Secondary air injection system codes usually take some running time before they show up. In your case, the coolant may be affecting that system in such a way as to not permit the engine to fire, but has not yet thrown a code. How to resolve this, I can't say. This is the first time I've heard of anyone pumping coolant into that system. I think you're going to have to consult a Honda tech.
Insofar as your engine is concerned, I don't believe you pumped any water into it, so at least that part, you're OK. You just have to find some way to clear all the water and dry up the air injection system ...................... and it is a very complex system with many components and related systems.

[repiv]

im sorry if this is a dumb question, but how would coolant ruin a motor? Why cant you just crank the motor but with with no ignition/spark and try to cycle the coolant through?

Have you never heard of the term "hydrolocking" an engine? This is when water is ingested into the engine, usually via a cold air intake that has had it's filter submerged in deep water or have had water fall into it from above. The most common of these CAIs are the Injen, AEM and Fujita type of intakes where the filter is situated low in the front bumper space.

Cranking an engine when water has been sucked in is the WORST thing you can do. Water does NOT compress, so when each piston goes up during its compression stroke, it slams into a wall of water. The result can be bent piston rods, cracked wrist pins and bearings and blown head gaskets. You CANNOT "cycle" the water through when both valves are closed during the compression and power strokes. Shutting off the ignition and spark doesn't stop the valves from working when you crank it. The intake stroke pulls the water in, then the compression stroke tried to squeeze that water ........................ SSSSNNAAPPP! Engine go Bye-Bye.

The only way to get water out of a cylinder is to remove the spark plug, THEN crank the engine. The residual moisture will still have to be removed somehow before you put the plugs back in. Most people who hydrolock their engines have the same opinion as you or they just don't know any better. They either continue to crank the engine or continue to drive the car after it begins to sputter. This is a hard lessen learned and an very expensive one.

[Looter]

:rolleye2: http://media.putfile.com/TB-How-Too

[repiv]

:rolleye2: http://media.putfile.com/TB-How-Too
Nothing shows but a red X. What is it?

[Looter]

:confused: It's working on my PC perfectly...It is a video of tne coolant bypass....Nothing shows but a red X. What is it?

[JH03S2K]

dose this mod give you any more power?

[Looter]

;) I haven't done the "Mod" however, I have heard that it works well... You have "NO" heat, if you do it...Does the video work for you...???dose this mod give you any more power?

[CD7SiRAccord]

;) I haven't done the "Mod" however, I have heard that it works well... You have "NO" heat, if you do it...Does the video work for you...???

What do you mean no heat? But anyway's I've done it, but I also did it at the same time as my Hondata Heat shield gasket, Spoon thermostat, and fan switch. So really no help here, sorry. But the Hondata heatshield gasket and the throttle body mod did help with a stumble during the heat of the day.

[RacingEmotions]

sorry to hear bout your mix-up. hope everything goes well in the repairs

[repiv]

:confused: It's working on my PC perfectly...It is a video of tne coolant bypass....
OK, see it now. I had to allow "Active X" to run.
I thought he was going to show the ball bearing trick, which is a lot simpler and doesn't involve hose re-routing. All you do is unhook the handiest of those lines and shove a ball bearing that fits really snugly inside the hose and put the hose back on. If you ever needed to reverse this (like in winter), you just take the ball bearing out.
I've been meaning to do this one of these summers and just see if this does lower the intake temps at all. I can monitor this easily with my ECU gauge, so maybe this is the year. Gotta wait till summer comes. It's been also said by a few S2000 mechanics that this really doesn't do anything. When I do it, I'll provide actual numbers.

To the OP, try to trace where all the places are that that line goes. You might be able to disconnect various hoses and flush it out with compressed air. There should be nothing in that system but air.