View Full Version : R.I.P OEM Clutch...
smac2K
11-04-2007, 01:01 AM
Well, I did it. I think I had help from the previous owner, but the clutch on the S2K is gone. Having a performance shop (with references, but they are also an account of mine) install a new clutch this week. The car has just under 52,000 miles, and I have drive about 16K of those...;)
I purchased an ACT Stage 2 (HDSS) and it will get worked on while I am in Kentucky this week. Any "Viperly" advice for me and my new clutch would be appreciated!!! :bow:
Thanks,
Justin
s2k 4 me
11-04-2007, 01:34 AM
Stop dropping the clutch trying to do burnouts with the new rims and tires.........that might help :rofl:
tlcs2k
11-04-2007, 01:35 AM
Stop dropping the clutch trying to do burnouts with the new rims and tires.........that might help :rofl:
What he said.
hayabusa1285
11-04-2007, 01:38 AM
how many miles?
smac2K
11-04-2007, 01:38 AM
OH, it has just under 52K...I'll edit that...
Looter
11-04-2007, 01:47 AM
:think: :think: :think: 52K.....and the clutch is gone.....:yikes: Well, I did it. I think I had help from the previous owner, but the clutch on the S2K is gone. Having a performance shop (with references, but they are also an account of mine) install a new clutch this week. The car has just under 52,000 miles, and I have drive about 16K of those...;)
I purchased an ACT Stage 2 (HDSS) and it will get worked on while I am in Kentucky this week. Any "Viperly" advice for me and my new clutch would be appreciated!!! :bow:
Thanks,
Justin
hayabusa1285
11-04-2007, 01:18 AM
that seems a lil quick to me :think:
repiv
11-04-2007, 03:23 AM
Drive it like you are breaking in a new car. With a new car, you're not just driving it easy for the first few hundred miles just to let the engine break in. You are also breaking in ALL parts of the drivetrain. Treating a new clutch as if it was in a new car certainly will do it no harm.
smac2K
11-04-2007, 05:49 AM
Thank you Dave!!!
I will keep you updated if anything "weird" happens...:thumbsup:
smac2K
11-04-2007, 04:41 PM
I guess I do have one more question...
How should I drive during the break in period...I'm not going to be doing burnouts or anything, but is there a limited time I should stay in each gear, not go above certain RPM's etc...
Thanks...
j
My_yella_s2k
11-04-2007, 04:46 PM
the clutch is only "working" when u press down on it and release it....
once its engaged, it wont do any harm. though if u "revmatch" as ur downshifting... it doesnt really hurt it, i wouldnt do it for 500 miles...
no excessive punching it from a stand still - esp w. the clutch disengaged and reving the gas....
simple things lke that can help
repiv
11-04-2007, 05:04 PM
^ What he said. You primarily don't want to engage the clutch in such a fashion as to risk glazing it so early in its life. Aggressive clutch applications is a sure killer for a new clutch. On the other hand, releasing it with too much clutch slip and lots of rpm will also condition it poorly. Where one will produce sudden high heat (and wear), the other will be like holding metal to a grindstone (slowly heating it up to the max).
Aggressive gear changes early in a clutches life will do the same thing as these tend to be high shock, with revs that don't quite match well.
We must not only give proper consideration to the friction surfaces, but to the bolts that hold it all together and the holes in the parts that those bolts go through.
Aggressive use for a new clutch would be analogous to the stress placed on lugnuts and lugs and rims on heavy equipment like big rigs and trucks. Did you know that anytime a big rig has a new tire change, the lugnuts on that rim must be re-torqued after about 500 miles? Obviously, we can't do that with a clutch. That's part of the reason why we should give it some "break in" time.
smac2K
11-13-2007, 09:06 PM
Just an update...
Everything went smooth for the most part. I am sure it was very entertaining to watch me try to leave the parking lot when I picked up the car...:lol: Pretty sure I killed it twice before leaving the parking SPOT, much less the parking lot!!!!!
It has about 400 miles on it now, and is perfect!!! It's like a brand new car!!!
Thanks for all your help and advice. BTW - The ACT clutch kit does NOT come with a "throw-out" bearing...Just so ya know...;)
ESSMM
11-13-2007, 09:14 PM
so whats a new clutch cost?
hayabusa1285
11-13-2007, 09:19 PM
so Smac now is it time to learn how to launch the car?
repiv
11-13-2007, 09:24 PM
so whats a new clutch cost?
Well, this depends on what components you choose, whether it be all OEM parts or bits and pieces of aftermarket parts.
Assuming your flywheel can be salvaged with only a machining (50 bucks) and you only replace the friction disc and get a new TO bearing, the cost would be much lower. If you chose to get a new flywheel (in most cases, a lightweight one) and a new pressure plate (in most cases, a heavy duty one), you're looking at much more money. Cost varies from one person to another.
Go here and price out the parts you might want: http://hardtopguy.com/store/customer/home.php
The parts you need:
-friction disc
-throw out bearing ("release" bearing)
-flywheel (if you don't or can't re-surface the old one) - should include pilot bearing
-pressure plate (if you don't wish to re-use the old one or if it's damaged)
Labour would run you about 8 to 10 hours, so this will also depend on where you go to do it. If you do it yourself, you'll save a ton of money but you'll need tools and equipment.
smac2K
11-13-2007, 09:36 PM
I went the route of the $50 machining of the flywheel, and after the TO bearing was purchased seperately it was just under $1300 retail...:yep:
ACT Stage 2, model number ending in HDSS
TO Bearing
Machining of Flywheel
Labor
Hope that helps!!!!
hayabusa1285
11-13-2007, 09:43 PM
how much of that was labor. i can do most of this myself (besides from the maching the flywheel)
smac2K
11-13-2007, 10:21 PM
I would say about half of it was labor...$70/hour is normal and 8-10 hours...:yep:
shamowfski
11-13-2007, 11:30 PM
I think I paid ~1k total for my new clutch. I got the act hd pressure plate, act friction disc, act flywheel, and Honda TO bearing (all from xlevel), and I think I only paid for like 6 hours of labor (shop was familiar with the job). I killed mine several times on the way home before I got used to it. I like the change, but sometimes the extra clutch force gets old in heavy traffic.
hayabusa1285
11-13-2007, 11:33 PM
a stage 2 is what i learned on. so now im all like where is the clutch ooo it grabing now hmm lol
vBulletin® v3.6.4, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.