Clutch slip after warmed up?

[archtop]

I have an 06' (still have the cdv ) and the clutch grabs fine (I even chip 2nd before it heats up)when I start off.After about 15 minutes of hard driveng ( heel/toe twisty mountain roads) the clutch will engage much slower.If I do a redline shift 1/2 or 3/4 to redline it holds the rpm and then engages slowly.It only has 9k miles.I don't do clutch drops and I don't smell "burning" clutch when I get back from my run.Is this the delay valve,fluid change time,or do I need a new clutch aready? Thanks John

[kgf3076]

I have an 06' (still have the cdv ) and the clutch grabs fine (I even chip 2nd before it heats up)when I start off.After about 15 minutes of hard driveng ( heel/toe twisty mountain roads) the clutch will engage much slower.If I do a redline shift 1/2 or 3/4 to redline it holds the rpm and then engages slowly.It only has 9k miles.I don't do clutch drops and I don't smell "burning" clutch when I get back from my run.Is this the delay valve,fluid change time,or do I need a new clutch aready? Thanks John
sounds like the delay valve to me...I have the same "problem".

[repiv]

(still have the cdv )

After about 15 minutes of hard driveng

I've quoted 2 of the phrases from your post that I believe to be the key components of why you are experiencing this clutch slip. It's hard to say if your clutch has worn or if it's just glazed from hard use and the presence of the CDV. If it's just glazed and not worn too badly, some normal driving will bring it back.
I would suggest one or more of the following:

- remove the CDV but realize some of the downside of this action ....... Although it will give you faster clutch engagement when things get hot, you will no longer have the drivetrain protection for which the CDV was intended.
- flush and change your clutch fluid. This may help things to some degree.
- go to a HD pressure plate when next time you do a clutch job.
- known the limitations of your car and base your driving accordingly.

[savello]

I have the same problem too.. Whats the CDV?

[repiv]

I have the same problem too.. Whats the CDV?

AP2 (2nd gen S2000) cars came with a 1-way restriction valve in the clutch slave cylinder called the "Clutch Delay Valve". This made it such that it is much more difficult to "drop the clutch". Fluid returning into the clutch line is restricted to a max flow rate, so that the pressure plate will only clamp onto the disc at a prescribed rate. The intention of Honda was to "soften" the clutch engagement so as to save other critical parts like the tranny, rear diff and CV joints, which many AP1 owners were damaging due to rapid clutch release.
You can remove this valve and get back the same sort of clutch action that AP1 owners had, but you must bear the consequences of doing so.

[savello]

how would i go about removing said valve???

[repiv]

how would i go about removing said valve???
The only "How To" I know off was done by my online friend "Billman250". You can see it here:

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=275175&view=findpost&p=5237490

[omniruss]

This is great info... I'd remove the cdv in a heartbeat, but is that recommended for s/c? I also have the Comptech reinforced diff with 4.56 gears. Would the tranny or cv's be stressed too much by removing cdv?

[repiv]

This is great info... I'd remove the cdv in a heartbeat, but is that recommended for s/c? I also have the Comptech reinforced diff with 4.56 gears. Would the tranny or cv's be stressed too much by removing cdv?

Having more power with a s/c would mean more shock that can be transmitted down the drive line. A re-inforced diff is no guarantee that it won't break. I've seen reports of CT re-inforced diffs blowing just because the driver is generally extra hard on it. Whether or not it's "too much" stress really depends on how you drive the car overall and how much you understand about heat and giving it a rest after it's been driven under high load. Fluid maintenance of the various bits of the drivetrain is ultra important.

[omniruss]

I'm not persistently rough on the cluth, but when I want to have fun I of course seek out twisties. Even those aren't as long as I'd like them to be. I still need to get roll bars to be track worthy anyhow. So all in all, give it time to cool... that's not a problem at this point. And, since you bring it up, and I'm greener than I'd like to admit, what would you recommend for fluid maintenance beyond clutch & diff? I'm still considering losing the cdv... it is really annoying, even before s/c.

[repiv]

Rear diff fluid is most vital. The tranny has a small pump and it can take a bit more abuse. Hard driving with lots of gear changes will heat cycle the clutch fluid repeatedly and this will tend to increase the absorption of water. Do the diff and clutch fluid annually at the very least if you drive in this way.