Removing rear rotors

[rsinghal33]

Hi all. I started a project on my s2000 of removing all the calipers and painting them gloss black along with addind some zinc plated drilled and slotted rotors with some new pads. Everything is going great the rotors are coming wed so as for now the car is sitting up on jacks with no calipers and the rotors removed. My question is this. I have already taken the front rotors oiff with the help of an impact wrench but when I got to the rear rotors to pull them off I noticed a rather large bolt sitting in the middle of it. Instead of messing with it as it was already late and dark in my garage I left it alone. How do I take the rear rotors off, I just want to be clear on what to do before I attempt anything. Does that large bolt need to be removed? and if it does what is the best tool to remove it. Thanks all-Rahul S

[gomarlins3]

I don't mean to speak for Dave, but I don't believe so. I believe they are removed the same way as the front, by removing the two screws. I did mine MANY years ago and I think that's all I did. I didn't remove the large nut in the middle.

If that is incorrect, I am sure Dave will correct me.

[rsinghal33]

Thanks for the input as I was thinking/hoping that was it.

[repiv]

Gomarlins3 is exactly correct. That big nut is the axle spindle nut that we hear so much about. That is the nut that Honda issued a TSB about increasing the torque (after cleaning and greasing the area) to resolve the click upon initial take off. If you remove that big nut, your axle hub will pull off. You don't really want that to happen.

[rsinghal33]

Thanks alot gomarlins and repiv. One more question I have is that I have read places about the way the rotors should be mounted regarding the position of the slots. Should the slots be facing toward the front of the car? or towards the rear of the car. Or is it more of a manufacturers setting?

[repiv]

Just to be clear, you're talking about the diagonal cuts in the face of the rotors, right? Those are primarily for water clearance as the pads scrape the face of the rotor. I don't think it really matters which way they point. I've seen them pointing in both directions. If the manufacturer makes a recommendation on this topic, then follow what they say. Other than that, I think it's just a matter of how you like them to look.
Now, if you're talking about the slots that are built into the space between the inner and outer rotor surface, these generally have a left and right side (see Brembo's site). The vanes need to spin in such a way as to maximize air movement between the inner and outer rotor surfaces as the car moves forward.
In the case of OEM rotors, Honda makes no such distinction because the vanes are directly radial to the center hub. In contrast, rotors such as Brembos, the vanes are angled and need to be mounted in their designated sides.

[gomarlins3]

I can't remember which is recommended. I didn't think about it when I mounted mine, but mine point to the rear.
http://forums.s2kca.com/photopost/data/500/thumbs/Rotors.jpg (http://forums.s2kca.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17116)
http://forums.s2kca.com/photopost/data/500/thumbs/Rear_rotor.jpg (http://forums.s2kca.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17115)

[trapper]

Just a guess on my part but wouldn't you want the diagonal slots on the rotor face pointed toward the rear. That way any water [or other debris in the slot] would tend to get thrown out from the center of the rotor to the outer edge by centrifugal force as the car moves forward.

[Red's Dad]

rsinghal33 did not say what brand of rotors that is going to be used, but the Powerslot rotors I'm using had VERY DETAILED instructions regarding the direction of their slots and the rotors themselves were plainly stamped "R" and "L" so you got them where Powerslot wanted them.

[poolshark743]

So I am assuming that is my cause of a clicking I hear on my left rear rotor on initial takeoff. It's very light but noticeable. How do I resolve this? The dealership told me it was a diff mount but after replacing them I still hear the click. I knew that wasn't what it was but I opted to replace them anyway. Any advice on how to clean, grease and torque specs would be appreciated.

[Jays2k]

You prob need to retighten your axle nuts. I just did this over the weekend and stopped all clicking i had. Is it only clicking when you start from a stop in foward or reverse? Honda put out a service bulliten on this.

[repiv]

So I am assuming that is my cause of a clicking I hear on my left rear rotor on initial takeoff. It's very light but noticeable. How do I resolve this? The dealership told me it was a diff mount but after replacing them I still hear the click. I knew that wasn't what it was but I opted to replace them anyway. Any advice on how to clean, grease and torque specs would be appreciated.

It's not too bad of a job to do if you have the tools. Here's what you're after:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=viewimage&img=310758&md=1
Jack the car up only enough to take the bulk of the weight off the tires. This is only on the rear wheels. Leave the tire on the ground and have the ebrake firmly applied so you can apply torque on the big nut. Chock the tire so your car won't roll off the jack when you turn the nut. Carefully pry off the wheel center cap to expose the nut. My picture shows the wheel off but that was for the purposes of another job. You don't need to take the wheel/tire off.
See that big brassy colored nut in the center? It is a 36mm nut. See that raised rim (on top of the nut part) that sort of hides part of the axle threads? On your car, you'll see that at one point on that rim, it is dented into a slot on the axle stud. That's the "stake". You need something hard and pointy to "unstake" that dent so you can turn the nut off.
Once off, you remove the big washer inside. Remember which way the washer faced. Wipe off everything you see with a lint free cloth as best you can. No need to use any solvent. Take some ball joint grease (the kind that comes out of a grease gun) and with your finger, apply it to the last bit of thread the nut will grab when it's on, apply it to both sides of the washer and on the surfaces of the hub and nut that will touch that washer. A thin film of grease will do.
Now, you must have a torque wrench that will measure to 221 lb/ft. That's what the new torque is for this thing. (The old torque from the factory was 181.) Honda deemed this was not enough. After you torque the nut down to spec, you will notice that the staking point has moved clockwise from the original indentation. Re-stake the rim at that point. You are done.
Chances are, your click will disappear and if you caught it early enough, it won't come back. If it comes back, that means the hub and bearing are damaged and you'll need a new hub and bearing.

[poolshark743]

Yes only from a stop start motion. What size is the nut? and is this only on the rear wheels?

[Jays2k]

Yes only rear wheels. Not sure on nut size but you should get new nuts from honda. and make sure you clean and grease.

[poolshark743]

Now I have an extended warranty is this something that is covered? My warranty states drive axle group is covered, axle bearings. I am assuming this is NOT a wear and tear item? Also sorry to hijack your thread.

[s2k_at_17]

Gomarlins3 is exactly correct. That big nut is the axle spindle nut that we hear so much about. That is the nut that Honda issued a TSB about increasing the torque (after cleaning and greasing the area) to resolve the click upon initial take off. If you remove that big nut, your axle hub will pull off. You don't really want that to happen.

So I am assuming that is my cause of a clicking I hear on my left rear rotor on initial takeoff. It's very light but noticeable. How do I resolve this? The dealership told me it was a diff mount but after replacing them I still hear the click. I knew that wasn't what it was but I opted to replace them anyway. Any advice on how to clean, grease and torque specs would be appreciated.

Yes only rear wheels. Not sure on nut size but you should get new nuts from honda. and make sure you clean and grease.

on that note i have the same thing happen to me every-now and then from a stop when i go in reverse.. i was just about to search for it but i think i found it..so how do i get rid of the click? replace, or should i just try and torque them?

[repiv]

What size is the nut? and is this only on the rear wheels?
It's all in my post above.

Now I have an extended warranty is this something that is covered? My warranty states drive axle group is covered, axle bearings.
Since this is a TSB and you are still under warranty, get the dealer to do this.

[repiv]

on that note i have the same thing happen to me every-now and then from a stop when i go in reverse.. i was just about to search for it but i think i found it..so how do i get rid of the click? replace, or should i just try and torque them?

If you have the tools, do it yourself. (See my post above with the picture.) If this click is left for too long, your bearing and hub will wear beyond fixing and will need to be replaced. Do the re-torque and see what happens.

[s2k_at_17]

If you have the tools, do it yourself. (See my post above with the picture.) If this click is left for too long, your bearing and hub will wear beyond fixing and will need to be replaced. Do the re-torque and see what happens.

it has only been doing it for about a week now, but im off today and im pretty sure my dad has the tools needed. will post after. thnks repiv

[rsinghal33]

Thanks all for the help. Rotors coming in tomm should have car back on the ground and calipers back on shortly after. Will post pics soon-Rahul