Soot on exhaust after FI - Normal?

[raymo19]

After a couple of weeks driving with a Comptech SC/AC I've noticed a lot of soot on the exhaust tips and surrounding areas that I never experienced NA. Is this most likely the result of a conservative tune with AFRs in the high 10s or something to be concerned about?

I'm not burning any oil to speak of and the car is running well.

[repiv]

It's likely partly due to the rich tune you're running. Mine rarely goes much under 12 (11.4 is the lowest I've seen). The S tends to produce quite a sooty exhaust anyway, as many NA owners have reported. In FI form, you're pushing out a lot more exhaust volume when boosting, so more soot is not unexpected.

[Goku]

Yep agree with Repiv. the best way to tell if you have a problem is to feel the soot. If its mostly dry and powerdy your fine. If its wet and slick it could be a bit of oil blow buy. But in general what you seeing it normal. I even get a bit of soot on my bumper when I run racing fuel. I'm not FI tho, but when you run so much gas in the engine it cant always burn it all off. Just make sure you clean it off often. It can stain the bumper if you leave it on too long.

[raymo19]

The soot is powdery and dry. Thanks for the replies.

[ScienceofSpeed]

As mentioned, the soot you see is from an overly rich exhaust mixture.

All new supercharged/turbo cars should be tested once installed for properly air fuel mixture. We have seen quite a varied result from both Comptech and Vortech superchargers that require adjustment on the dyno for a suitable mixture.

take care,
-- Chris

[Bipod]

Interesting... I'm running a Comptech S/C and I get a completely black back end when I drive an hour or so on the freeway. I had my car into a tuner in Phoenix after I'd had the s/c for a couple months... and dyno'd it... and the AFR on the dyno chart dips below 10 at the VTEC point. He said that was normal and there wasn't much they could do about it since it was running in the 12-12.5 range at all other RPM levels and the Comptech only allows for fuel pressure changes... Is this true? Or should I take it in again and see if I can get the AFR tuned up a bit?

[Goku]

10! thats way to low. I mean your never gona blow it up cause its so low, but you want a ideal lv of 11-12. you may want to check with another shop

[raymo19]

In my case I have an AEM EMS but the tuner wanted to leave the AF rich initially just to be safe. I couldn't get away from work the day it was dynoed so we may be going back.

[repiv]

I'm thinking if you have it tuned to an a/f of around 12.0, you'd get another 20+ whp out of it and still be safe.

[Bipod]

just for my own information, what is the safe range of AFR's and what does being outside them mean?

[repiv]

just for my own information, what is the safe range of AFR's and what does being outside them mean?
(This is personal opinion.) For F.I., an a/f around 12.0 at WOT, in the upper rev band, will produce the most safe power. Below that, you start to get rich and begin to lose a bit of power, but you also never need to worry about being "unsafe", till you run so rich that you start to fowl plugs and clog up your cat. Above that, you begin to gain power but you also begin to run the risk of running on the lean side. This means your combustion temps begin to rise alarmingly and you risk burning up plugs and valves. The worst thing about running too lean, is you start to "detonate". This is when the combustion happens in a part of the piston stroke that is too soon before TDC (full compression). Detonation will very quickly destroy an engine. Some guys run 12.5 to 13.0 with reasonable safety and good power. It's a matter of how else the car is tuned (timing and intake temps, water injection, etc.) and "Do you feel lucky?"
If you're talking about non-F.I., then you can be closer to "stoich", which is 14.7.

[Jerome]

Thanks all for the above A/F information. I have not noticed any black soot on my FI S2000 rear (the car is black), but then I have only driven it about 250 miles (short trips) since the sc was installed. I do intend to have the car dynoed to check the A/F mixture across the RPM/Load range. Anybody know of a good dyno shop within 100 miles of Jasper, AR?

Jerome
NW Arkansas

[raymo19]

Dave if you don't mind with the caveat that it is your opinion:

Where does this graph need to change as to APRs for optimal yet safe performance throughout the power band?

http://www.s2kca.com/photopost/data/500/6332Picture_001-med.jpg

[repiv]

The a/f trace in your graph seems a bit unstable. It takes a blip upwards at the beginning and then plunges suddenly just after 4000 rpm and bounces up and down to the end. I suspect when the a/f richens, that when boost is starting to build and the fuel pressure begins to ramp up. You should see if the fuel pressure reg can be turned down so that you can achieve a steady a/f of about 11.5 to 12.0 from around 5000 rpm to the end.

[fltsfshr]

Hi Raymo

Daves right, your a/f curve is unstable and your dumping more fuel that you need to.
That should be a smooth line that reflects n/a a/f ratios prior to building boost and then dipping and holding around 12, every car is a little different.

The best thing I've found for cleaning soot on the tips is Mothers billet cleaner. When I did the custom ezhaust, I kept my Neuspeed tips I'm always cleaning those. :D

I see he dropped the dyno off early as well to protect you. The best tune I've had is off an enertial dyno where we're using exact car weight and tuning not only wot but partial throttle as well. Out of curiosity where did he set your vtec engagement?

And how do you like boost?

fltsfshr

[raymo19]

Hey flts, how you been?

How then does one go about stabilizing the AF curve? I get the part about the fuel reg leaning out the mix.

I'll look into getting the Mother's.

These guys are really competent but very inexperienced with S2000s. As I understand it, VTEC engagement is set at 4800 RPM and a percentage of throttle which I can't recall (70 or 80 maybe?).

I think the blower combined with the gears makes for a very different driving experience. I find it quite addictive. :D

I'm really glad I got the shift beeper now. In first and second gear it sounds like Morse code.

One other thing I forgot about. The Denso plugs that came with the kit are supposed to be gapped at .028. That seems a bit narrow from what I've read. Opinions?

[Jerome]

raymo19 When my Comptech S/C was installed the Denso spark plugs came new in the box with 0.030 gap. Not knowing better (no instructions from Comptech), the plugs were installed with that gap. Repiv later infromed me that I should have re-gapped the plugs to 0.034 or 0.035 (being careful not to touch the slender center electrode). Repiv also reported that some FI S2000 owners with the Denso plugs found (after a few months) their engines developed a high-rpm miss. Repiv has lots of experience with supercharged S2000 cars. You might PM him for his suggestions. Before I take my FI S2000 to the DE 3-4 March event at TWS, I am going to get Curt (Houston) to check its Denso plugs (replace if necessary) and re-gap them to 0.034.
(When removing and re-installing spark plugs always use new crushable gaskets and be sure to torque each plug to the factory spec.)

Jerome
Arkansas

[raymo19]

raymo19 When my Comptech S/C was installed the Denso spark plugs came new in the box with 0.030 gap. Not knowing better (no instructions from Comptech), the plugs were installed with that gap. Repiv later infromed me that I should have re-gapped the plugs to 0.034 or 0.035 (being careful not to touch the slender center electrode). Repiv also reported that some FI S2000 owners with the Denso plugs found (after a few months) their engines developed a high-rpm miss. Repiv has lots of experience with supercharged S2000 cars. You might PM him for his suggestions. Before I take my FI S2000 to the DE 3-4 March event at TWS, I am going to get Curt (Houston) to check its Denso plugs (replace if necessary) and re-gap them to 0.034.
(When removing and re-installing spark plugs always use new crushable gaskets and be sure to torque each plug to the factory spec.)

Jerome
Arkansas

That has been my understanding as well for the plug gap. I'm curious as to why the instructions specified .028. Anyone care to explain the reason for .034 to .035? I just love learning about this stuff.

I've got to take the car in this week to get the new clutch replaced and I plan to check the plugs and discuss tuning changes while I'm there.

[raymo19]

Did I run everybody off? :(

[Bipod]

http://www.s2kca.com/photopost/data/500/3266dyno-web-med.jpg

Can you guys help me out here... the AFR graph isn't great other than to show that indeed it drops below 10 between 5800 and 6400 RPM. It's really high at the low RPM and relatively stable for all other RPM's... the only issue with this dyno run was that it was 98 deg with about 95% humidity that day... so not too much like the normal operating conditions for my car. What are your opinions of what you see here? Anything will help...thanks!

[repiv]

That has been my understanding as well for the plug gap. I'm curious as to why the instructions specified .028. Anyone care to explain the reason for .034 to .035? I just love learning about this stuff.

I've got to take the car in this week to get the new clutch replaced and I plan to check the plugs and discuss tuning changes while I'm there.
Was it Comptech that specified the plug gap? If you were at higher boost (say, near 10 psi or higher), then that gap may be suitable. Also, that would be fine if you were going pedal to the metal from stop light to stop light. But for a more sanely driven car, where you're not always "on it", a wider gap is more appropriate to diminish chances of fouling. Too big a gap (like the NA stock gap) is too wide and you would risk "blowing out" the spark under full boost. Around 0.034" is a nice compromise for daily driving for these types of "mildly" boosted cars. And yes, do be wary of the Denso Iridium plugs. They seem to work just fine for a while, but in more cases than I would be comfortable with, they eventually produce a high rpm miss. Now, maybe Denso has resolved this problem, but you must be on the look out for it. If you're going to have a miss, a high rpm one is not the time to have it on a boosted car.

I'm not sure about the AEM and how you would stabilize the a/f trace. That's beyond my experience level. Also keep in mind that on a dyno where the a/f sensor is in the exhaust tip, it will read a bit leaner that what it would be in the header. You could have a reading of about 1/2 a point leaner in the tailpipe than you would want in the header and still have what you want.

[repiv]

http://www.s2kca.com/photopost/data/500/3266dyno-web-med.jpg

Can you guys help me out here... the AFR graph isn't great other than to show that indeed it drops below 10 between 5800 and 6400 RPM. It's really high at the low RPM and relatively stable for all other RPM's... the only issue with this dyno run was that it was 98 deg with about 95% humidity that day... so not too much like the normal operating conditions for my car. What are your opinions of what you see here? Anything will help...thanks!
Being "high" at those lower rpms is not a concern, but it's really odd that the chart drops below 10 and disappears at that one range. It would be nice to see just how low it goes. It may also have something to do with why your HP and torque graphs do that weird thing right around that point. Are you using any stand alone or piggy back for your set-up? I've never seen that with a stock ECU.

[ScienceofSpeed]

Interesting... I'm running a Comptech S/C and I get a completely black back end when I drive an hour or so on the freeway. I had my car into a tuner in Phoenix after I'd had the s/c for a couple months... and dyno'd it... and the AFR on the dyno chart dips below 10 at the VTEC point. He said that was normal and there wasn't much they could do about it since it was running in the 12-12.5 range at all other RPM levels and the Comptech only allows for fuel pressure changes... Is this true? Or should I take it in again and see if I can get the AFR tuned up a bit?

Unfortunately any forced induction using a mechanical FMU requires compromising during tuning. You will have peaks and valleys on the AFR chart and you need to make compromises to deal with it as best as possible. In general, we shoot for around 12-12.5:1 as maximum value.

A stand alone system allows you to perfectly tune each possible RPM and load cell. In addition, this allows ignition timing control. A good system like one from AEM is one of the best investments for forced induction used on a normally naturally aspirated car like the S2000.

I hope that helps.

We offer both this system and tuning if you become interested.


Cheers,
-- Chris

[fltsfshr]

Raymo

It's just a matter of getting your car on a dyno with a good aem tuner. They'll adjust that right out and find you some more power both midrange and top. You can pull and add fuel incrementally across the rpm spectum.

If you're ever down this way vacationing again, give my friend dave a couple hours and you'll be amazed at the result.

fltsfshr

[raymo19]

Dave I believe the gap specifications were Denso's. I'll confirm that when I take the car in this week. We're going to pull the plugs to check them so I may have them gapped to .034 and drive it a while. Is the miss noticeable with these plugs?

I'm also going to see about getting back to the dyno with the tuner to see about changing the AFRs. He's supposed to be as good as it gets around here.

flts - depending on how this turns out I may take you up on that.

[repiv]

Dave I believe the gap specifications were Denso's. I'll confirm that when I take the car in this week. We're going to pull the plugs to check them so I may have them gapped to .034 and drive it a while. Is the miss noticeable with these plugs?
Ahh, that only means that Denso meant for these plugs to be used in some other application. They wouldn't produce a plug strictly for use in a supercharged S2000. You must always use the gap that is appropriate for your own application. Yes, the miss is unmistakeable. Mine was running perfectly for almost a year, then one day, out of the blue, it started to miss. I replaced them with the NGK copper racing plugs (V-power) and the miss disappeared immediately. The copper plugs have the disadvantage in that they don't last very long. You have to check them every 5K miles or so. Depending on how you've been driving, you may or may not need to clean and/or replace them at that time.

[raymo19]

Thanks Dave and everyone for the help and information. So I can regap the plugs to .034 without any other changes? If so I'll get that done this week while the car's in the shop and start looking at the NGK plugs for the retune. :thumbsup:

[repiv]

Thanks Dave and everyone for the help and information. So I can regap the plugs to .034 without any other changes? If so I'll get that done this week while the car's in the shop and start looking at the NGK plugs for the retune. :thumbsup:
Yes, just be very careful not to apply pressure onto the center electrode. It is VERY delicate. Use fine needle nosed pliars on the curved part of the outer electrode to carefully open the gap. The NGK's I'm using are coded 7173 (or at least they used to be). Like the Denso Iridium IK-24, the NGK 7173 is one step colder. You should be able to order those online via "sparkplugs.com".

[Bipod]

Unfortunately any forced induction using a mechanical FMU requires compromising during tuning. You will have peaks and valleys on the AFR chart and you need to make compromises to deal with it as best as possible. In general, we shoot for around 12-12.5:1 as maximum value.

A stand alone system allows you to perfectly tune each possible RPM and load cell. In addition, this allows ignition timing control. A good system like one from AEM is one of the best investments for forced induction used on a normally naturally aspirated car like the S2000.

I hope that helps.

We offer both this system and tuning if you become interested.


Cheers,
-- Chris

So what are we talking about in cost here SOS? I may be interested when my tax refund comes in :D ?!

[Bipod]

Being "high" at those lower rpms is not a concern, but it's really odd that the chart drops below 10 and disappears at that one range. It would be nice to see just how low it goes. It may also have something to do with why your HP and torque graphs do that weird thing right around that point. Are you using any stand alone or piggy back for your set-up? I've never seen that with a stock ECU.

I'm sure I don't have anything extra other than what the Comptech unit comes with from the dealer... I had it installed by the Honda dealer, and I didn't want to change anything until the warranty on the s/c (by the dealer) ran out at 36k... but since that's right around the corner now, I'm ready to make a few mods ( hopefully not too many $$) to make sure the s/c lasts me another 36k+ without damange to the engine... also I will be adding the aftercooler soon since the original install was without that important part.

[repiv]

I'm sure I don't have anything extra other than what the Comptech unit comes with from the dealer... I had it installed by the Honda dealer, and I didn't want to change anything until the warranty on the s/c (by the dealer) ran out at 36k... but since that's right around the corner now, I'm ready to make a few mods ( hopefully not too many $$) to make sure the s/c lasts me another 36k+ without damange to the engine... also I will be adding the aftercooler soon since the original install was without that important part.
One thing you should eliminate is the ESM wiring. I've personally seen quite a few Comptech cars that have experienced weird operating parameters simply due to crimped connections. Make sure all your wiring connections are soldered. It seems that Comptech is more suseptible to crimp connections than Vortech. If your MAP clamp isn't sending out the proper masking signal, the ECU might be doing weird things with the fuel injector pulses. I'm taking a stab in the dark here, but at least you can take this out of the equation.
Also, when you do finally get the aftercooler put on, you will lose between 1/2 to 1 full psi of boost. To compensate for this, you should consider a slightly smaller pulley to get that psi back. However, in doing so, you are bringing back that psi in a kind of different way and you then need to crank up the fuel pressure a bit to make it all work properly. It may vary from car to car, but on an AP1 that I witnessed getting the a/c and smaller pulley put on at the Comptech factory near Sacramento, the tech cranked up the FPR 3 full turns to achieve a strong and safe running condition.

[SondraS2k]

Kerry et al: you might want to PM Stantaur. Not only does he have one of the most reliable turbo systems around, he tunes it himself and even attended EFI University last summer to get even better at it. I'm positive that he could lend some really good insight into this discussion.

[Bipod]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions!!! One other question... It seems that when the s/c was installed the engine temp rev limiter was disabled. Is this normal? I just happend to get on it at a stop sign the other morning and didn't realize I hadn't hit the 3-bar temp yet, but the rev limiter didn't kick in. I've made it two years without realizing this, I guess I'm just really careful when the car is cold. :thumbsup:

Sorry for the thread hijack raymo19! :D

[raymo19]

No problem. It just occurred to me that my cold temp rev limiter probably doesn't work anymore. I don't plan to confirm that suspicion however.

[repiv]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions!!! One other question... It seems that when the s/c was installed the engine temp rev limiter was disabled. Is this normal? I just happend to get on it at a stop sign the other morning and didn't realize I hadn't hit the 3-bar temp yet, but the rev limiter didn't kick in. I've made it two years without realizing this, I guess I'm just really careful when the car is cold. :thumbsup:

Sorry for the thread hijack raymo19! :D
That may be a characteristic of the AEM. If you're still using the stock ECU, then this is weird.

[raymo19]

That's what made me think about it. I got the Modifry gadget to get my temp gauge back but a stock ECU - that is weird.

[Jerome]

This is the first I have heard of a cold engine temp rev limiter. Do AP1's have it? Does the Comptech Supercharger install disable it somehow? I keep finding more and more about S2000 cars!

Jerome
Arkansas

[photodavo]

Jerome,

If the car is not sufficiently warmed up (three bars) there is a fuel cut-off at about the vtec point. It's like hitting a brick wall. :)

[Jerome]

Thanks Dave! I never experienced the effect as never, NEVER get on mine cold.

Jerome
Arkansas
Black Stealth S2000 (sc but stock exhaust)

[photodavo]

LOL - yeah, I only did it once going up the on ramp at DFW airport after being out of town for a couple weeks and missing my S. :)

[repiv]

This is the first I have heard of a cold engine temp rev limiter. Do AP1's have it? Does the Comptech Supercharger install disable it somehow? I keep finding more and more about S2000 cars!

Jerome
Arkansas
Yes, ALL S2000s have this cold rev limiter. However, if you "get on it" with 2 bars (AP1), you might still be able to VTEC as it is so close to the next bar, that the actual coolant temps is adequate for the ECU to allow VTEC. The "bars" on the gauge is only for our visual reference. The ECU sees it as degrees and once the threshold is reached, VTEC is allowed. This may or may not be at a precise number of bars.

[raymo19]

Well the new improved clutch disk finally came in and the car is in the shop for the change out. I got to thinking about the plug gap again and decided to call Comptech to ask about it. The tech I talked to said that all the kits they are shipping now have the plugs gapped at .028. When I asked why and explained my concerns that it seemed narrow he said he didn't know why.

Now I have a couple of questions.

First - If we pull the plugs and they are OK (no evidence of fouling) would it be just as well to leave them as is and just check them from time to time?

Second - Could the narrower gap be their resolution to the high RPM miss?

[Goku]

1: I would check them from time to time. Its a good idea even if you dont have a SC, but just drive hard.
2: A narrower gap will cause a hotter spark. But only in the sense that it can burn the fuel. It also adds a tinny bit of advancement to the timming. So this could help the car out in not missing at high rpms if the spark is not strong enough to burn the fuel you could easly have a miss at 8-9000 rpm.

[repiv]

Well the new improved clutch disk finally came in and the car is in the shop for the change out. I got to thinking about the plug gap again and decided to call Comptech to ask about it. The tech I talked to said that all the kits they are shipping now have the plugs gapped at .028. When I asked why and explained my concerns that it seemed narrow he said he didn't know why.

Now I have a couple of questions.

First - If we pull the plugs and they are OK (no evidence of fouling) would it be just as well to leave them as is and just check them from time to time?

Second - Could the narrower gap be their resolution to the high RPM miss?
On paper, I consider a gap of 28 thou a bit narrow for the kind of boost most of us run in either of the stock kits (CT and VT). However, having said that, the "proof is always in the pudding". Indeed, if you check the plugs every few thousand miles and they look good with that gap, it's obviously working for you, so just leave them as is.
I'm not sure it's their solution since I wasn't aware that high rpm missing was a problem with an otherwise stock supercharger kit, particularly when "typical" plugs are used. Where we've seen high rpm misses in on supercharged cars running the Denso Iridium IK24 plugs. I've never heard of such misses when the OEM plugs (platinum) or copper plugs have been used.

[raymo19]

Dave these are the IK24 Densos. From what I understand Comptech ships them with the kit. I don't know if they always have or if this is recent.

[repiv]

Dave these are the IK24 Densos. From what I understand Comptech ships them with the kit. I don't know if they always have or if this is recent.
I see. Now, it's a bit more clear. I guess news of the high rpm miss has gotten back to CT and in light of this information, then I would tend to believe that it's likely to address this issue.
The IK24's worked wonderfully for several months with a gap of 0.034" and they never showed any signs of fouling at that gap. Be mindful of this miss some months down the road and if the engine seems to run well, check for fouling and if none is evident, keep them.
ps. I didn't realize CT ships the kits with IK plugs or that they supplied plugs at all till this thread. VT never sent any plugs. We were simply to use OEM plugs that were relatively new (which I used for about a year before trying the IK24).

[raymo19]

I see. Now, it's a bit more clear. I guess news of the high rpm miss has gotten back to CT and in light of this information, then I would tend to believe that it's likely to address this issue.
The IK24's worked wonderfully for several months with a gap of 0.034" and they never showed any signs of fouling at that gap. Be mindful of this miss some months down the road and if the engine seems to run well, check for fouling and if none is evident, keep them.
ps. I didn't realize CT ships the kits with IK plugs or that they supplied plugs at all till this thread. VT never sent any plugs. We were simply to use OEM plugs that were relatively new (which I used for about a year before trying the IK24).

My kit came from NOPI and included the plugs. I'm not certain if all the kits ship with them or not. Perhaps someone else who bought one recently will chime in.

In any event I'll follow your advice and let everyone know how they work out.

[raymo19]

I had a pretty light day at work today so I decided to download the software for the AEM EMS 1052. After I read, read again, and read again the pdf manuals that came with the software I might actually consider connecting my laptop to it. Maybe by July.:D

While reading the AEM EFI basics pdf I came across this:

The spark plug gap on forced induction engines should be reduced REGARDLESS of the type of ignition system. We have read many instruction manuals for aftermarket ignition systems that recommend that the plug gap be opened up for better flame propagation. Although this recommendation may have had some merit when vehicles had carburetors, it does not apply to modern engines with electronic engine management systems. The smaller gap on forced-induction engines requires less spark energy to arc across the ground and the electrode and has a lesser tendency to misfire under the extreme pressures of a racing engine combustion chamber. Also there are spark plugs made with exotic fine wire highly conductive center electrodes that require less energy to fire such as the Denso Iridium that are well suited to racing conditions. The following is a chart of gap sizes for various engines on gasoline:

Naturally Aspirated up to 11.0:1 CR 1.1mm (.044”)
Naturally Aspirated 11.0:1 to 14.0: 1.8mm (.032”)
Forced Induction to 20-PSI .7mm (.028”)
Forced Induction to 40-PSI .6mm (.022”)

Thought you guys might want to digest/comment on this. My plugs looked fine when we did the check last week @ .028.

[raymo19]

Dave you pretty much nailed it on the gains I could expect by leaning out the AFR. The tuner welded a bung onto the exhaust to better monitor the gases. We gained 25 hp and really smoothed out the performance. Thanks again all for your advice.

http://forums.s2kca.com/photopost/data/500/medium/dyno1.jpg

[repiv]

Dave you pretty much nailed it on the gains I could expect by leaning out the AFR. The tuner welded a bung onto the exhaust to better monitor the gases. We gained 25 hp and really smoothed out the performance. Thanks again all for your advice.


Congrats on the finding the hidden power. 25 is pretty good gains for a little bit of work and small expense.

Next up .......................................
Get the AP2 pulley and tune a bit more and you'll grab another 20 whp, but those will cost quite a bit more than your last 25 whp. (Maybe around $400.00.)

[raymo19]

Get the AP2 pulley and tune a bit more and you'll grab another 20 whp, but those will cost quite a bit more than your last 25 whp. (Maybe around $400.00.)

I'm already using the AP2 pulley.:(

Oh well, I think I'll just leave her alone for a while. I need to get used to the way the car drives now as it is.:)

[repiv]

I'm already using the AP2 pulley.:(

Oh well, I think I'll just leave her alone for a while. I need to get used to the way the car drives now as it is.:)

I see. Well, it looks like you're peaking out around 285 to 290 whp. That's fairly par for a stock set-up. You should be quite happy with that. I'd leave it at that and know that it will provide you with years of reliable service.

[raymo19]

I see. Well, it looks like you're peaking out around 285 to 290 whp. That's fairly par for a stock set-up. You should be quite happy with that. I'd leave it at that and know that it will provide you with years of reliable service.

Enjoyable too! I'm really very pleased. With the blower and the gears I've got pretty much what I was looking for. I may do a repaint and clear bra later this year but I think I'm about done under the hood.

Thanks again everyone.

[raymo19]

Update:

The Densos have been in for a little over 18 months now. Pulled them again this week and they're just fine. The recommendation for the smaller gap with these plugs and this application may have some merit. YMMV.

I'm also running a 9# SOS pulley now.